The swimming pool at the Capella Singapore where Taylor Swift is said to be staying
It’s thought that Taylor Swift has checked into the luxury Capella hotel and resort on Sentosa for the Singapore leg of The Eras Tour.
Sentosa is a tiny island off Singapore, connected to the “mainland” by road bridge and home to exclusive hotels and homes, restaurants, a beach club, marina and golf course.
Capella hotel with Sentosa golf courses and Singapore skyline
The Capella hotel sits in splendid isolation on the island on a slight elevation and in its own leafy grounds – providing the perfect private retreat for Taylor and Travis Kelce should he join her.
The remarkable colonial era entrance, all white columns and terracotta tiles, was part of a British army base in the 1880s and now houses the reception and lobby as well as a library. These original heritage buildings segue into a stunning, Norman Foster designed, resort.
The curvaceous modern building leads down to tiered terraces culminating in the infinity pool, arguably one of the most scenic in the world. Bob’s Bar is a popular spot for al fresco drinking overlooking the pool and the South China Sea beyond. The hotel’s Auriga spa is the best in Singapore in Choptix’s experience. As well as the excellent treatments there are heat and water rooms to enjoy before hand.
Colonial Manor, Capella Singapore
Dotted in the verdant grounds are garden bungalows complete with private terrace and plunge pool. For a sea view you’ll need to book a regular room or suite in the main hotel building but for even more lavish seclusion there are several three bedroomed “contemporary manors” and two presidential suites, in which Taylor is probably staying. Both occupy standalone colonial villas and all the manors have private swimming pools.
Contemporary Manor, Capella Singapore
Peacocks roam free at the Capella resort too. Taylor and teamed be warned: they are particularly attracted to black cars and have been known to attack their reflections in them!
When Taylor Swift touches down in Singapore for The Eras Tour starting this weekend the megastar will have a number of luxury hotel suites to choose from. Chopstix considers the options.
Chairman Suite at Marina Bay Sands, Singapore
Chairman Suite, Marina Bay Sands Marina Bay Sands’ VIP Guests are put up in the invitation The Chairman’s suite. With a sky scrapper view of Marina Bay and South China Sea, the suite has four bedrooms and bathrooms – all with Jacuzzis. Other features that will likely appeal to Taylor Swift are a private elevator, baby grand piano, media room with Karaoke plus gym, steam and sauna, massage room and hair salon.
Colonial Manor, Capella Singapore
Colonial Manor, The Capella Should Ms Swift want to escape the city the two presidential suites at this luxury Sentosa island hideaway are actually standalone, historic houses. The two storey, three bedder manors – all perfectly preserved white columns and shutters – and are so special they have conservation status.
And while the houses look 19th century colonial on the outside they’ve been furnished with a mix of tasteful shades of greige mod and antique Asian artifacts. Each manor also comes with the luxury of its own private garden and swimming pool. Taylor and her entourage should watch out for the resident peacocks – apparently they like to peck at black coloured cars.
Presidential Suite at the St Regis Singapore
Presidential Suite, St Regis The hotel’s Beverly Hills meets Versailles vibe is writ large in its Presidential Suite. Lavish furnishings include painted silk panels, custom made crystal chandeliers and a water wall feature. There’s also a baby grand piano and original works by big name artists.
From the wraparound terrace there’s a panoramic view of the Botanic Gardens – and a hand polished brass swing from which to enjoy it. A private chef will whip up dinner on the grill out there for guests or inside in the more genteel, 12 seater dining area if they prefer.
As well as a gym there’s a Jacuzzi, jet shower and marble steam chamber. Plus the option of complimentary daily massages for two in suite.
Sarkies Suite at Raffles Singapore
Sarkies Suite, Raffles All the guest rooms at Raffles are suites – there’s nothing so hum drum as a mere room – but all the suites are not created equal. Spiffiest is the Sarkies (William and Catherine, now Prince and Princess of Wales, stayed there). Named after the original owners, it’s housed in the prime position of the main building and overlooks the famous driveway.
The bed room has a four poster and a vast veranda overlooking the pretty Palm Court. All in all, fit for a (pop) princess.
Shangri La Suite Singapore
Shangri-La Suite, Shangri La Not only will Shangri-La Suite guests arrive at the Valley Wing entrance – more exclusive than the main hotel lobby – they’ll also have their own personal entrance there. Then it’s a private elevator ride to the vast Shangri-La suite.
His ‘n hers dressing rooms (if Travis Kelce joins Taylor in Singapore) a gym and sauna await as well as personalised bathrobes, pillow cases and stationery. Butler service is available around the clock. If Taylor wants gourmet cuisine or hawker food served on fine china at the walnut dining table – no problem. As well as the master bedroom, there’s an ensuite twin – usually utilised by guest’s security detail.
Extreme Wow Suite, W Singapore
Extreme Wow Suite, W Sentosa Also on Sentosa, the W’s Extreme Wow suite lives up to its name with an abundance of marble and purple furnishings. And that’s just the start of it. All the pieces fall under the category of statement from the eye catching lighting and wall designs to the semi circular sofa and the standalone bar.
Particularly stunning is the bathroom with a striking chandelier hanging over a circular bath, plush day bed and designer exercise bike. The overall feel is a cross between a nightclub and a playboy crash pad, right down to the DJ booth (perfect for Travis) and inside and outside hot tubs. There’s also a pretty nice marina view for anyone who can tear their eyes away from the interiors.
[Update The Peninsula London opened today, September 12th].
On a foggy day in London The Peninsula unveiled its much anticipated new hotel for the first time to the media.
Based down the road from Buckingham Palace at Hyde Park Corner in a former office block, the familiar large stone lions stand guard outside and pages in their recognizable white uniforms and hats greet us. Inside, The Lobby is reminiscent of the Hong Kong flagship with white columns and tables arranged for afternoon tea.
While the signature Peninsula hallmarks are here, a sense of the British capital is too. Most notably in the hand painted murals depicting scenes from nearby Hyde Park. “It is essential that guests who walk through our doors know what city they are in,” says Peter Borer, COO of The Hongkong and Shanghai Hotels, Ltd (HSH) which owns The Peninsula hotels.
British craftsmanship will be a big part of the hotel. Fashion designer Jenny Packham (whose frocks are popular with Catherine, Princess of Wales, including the stunning gold number she wore to the latest James Bond premiere) is creating the staff uniform. And artworks commissioned from the Royal Drawing School (founded by King Charles III to offer free or low cost art training) will adorn the walls.
When it opens the hotel will be the twelfth Peninsula following Istanbul which is slated to open on February 14th. This particular Pen has been a long time in the planning. “Our search [for a London location] started over 30 years ago – we are very fussy,” say Clement Kwok, CEO of HSH.
The Peninsula London
We are shown to one of the 190 guest rooms and suites which although entry size measures an impressively spacious 51 sq m and has floor to ceiling windows with a view of the landmark Wellington Arch. The room has the calming colours, luxurious finishes and all the amenities that Peninsula guests are used to – touch screens to operate almost everything, walk in wardrobes complete with nail varnish dryer, valet closets to have your items picked up or dropped off without disturbing you and a “spa” button in the bathroom to dim the lighting and stream soothing music.
The Peninsula LondonThe Peninsula London
On completion the hotel will feature several food and beverage venues. As well as the all-day dining Lobby we are shown Canton Blue restaurant also on the ground floor, helmed by acclaimed Cantonese chef Dicky To (previously executive chef at The Peninsula’s Chinese restaurants in Shanghai and most recently Paris).
Both the cuisine and design take inspiration from the Keying junk which sailed between China and Britain in the mid 19th century “honouring our Chinese roots and the British-Chinese trade routes,” says The Peninsula London’s managing director, Sonja Vodusek. The intimate space featuring rich, jewel like colours, includes the Little Blue Bar which will serve artisan teas and cocktails.
On the top floor there will be an automotive and aviation inspired restaurant, Brooklands, named after the historic British racing track, aerodrome and museum. A large outdoor terrace will give views of the London skyline. Serving modern European cuisine, the restaurant will be overseen by Claude Bosi who although French assures us he has lived in England for longer than his homeland. He has indeed garnered several Michelin stars at a number of restaurants in the UK.
Two further Peninsula signatures will feature. A Spa and Wellness centre including a 25m indoor swimming pool is also due to open as well as a retail arcade housing nine upscale boutiques.
Of course The Peninsula, known for its green Rolls-Royces, will have a fleet of cars to transport guests to and from the London hotel. This will include a restored 1935 Rolls Royce Phantom, bespoke hybrid Bentley Bentaygas, and an electrified 1960s Austin taxi.
[UPDATE Raffles London at The OWO is opening on September 29th, 2023]
The instructions were to arrive at “the Spies Entrance” in Whitehall at 6 o’clock sharp. This intriguing missive was not an assignation with M or Moneypenny but an invite to take a “first look” at Raffles London at the OWO (the Old War Office) – the Singapore hotel brand’s inaugural UK outpost, owned in part by the Hinduja Group.
Completed in 1906, the building was the centre of operations through two world wars and home to the British secret service. Lawrence of Arabia had a desk here and James Bond creator Ian Fleming was a regular visitor. It’s no coincidence that several Bond films had scenes shot at the OWO including Skyfall where Daniel Craig’s 007 stands on top of the building looking moodily over the rooftops. Alas the hotel will not be open in time for the 60th anniversary of James Bond in film, October 2022.
Raffles London at the OWO
As it turns out the Spies Entrance, formerly frequented by agents, is discreetly positioned at the back of the building and is now the access for the Raffles’ luxury apartments. The main hotel entry is on Whitehall itself, the road running between the Houses of Parliament and Trafalgar Square that also gives its name to the wider area.
While the Edwardian Baroque façade of this vast building is currently hidden behind hoardings, once inside the sheer scale of the place is immediately noticeable. And although the transformation into a 120 roomed luxury hotel is still in progress, what’s already apparent is the restored original features such as oak panelled walls, grand fireplaces and cornicing on the soaringly high ceilings.
From the entrance hall leads an impressive marble staircase on which successive statesman have stepped. Overhead is a balcony where Winston Churchill would address the staff, Raffles London managing director Philippe Leboeuf (who has moved from the Mandarin Oriental Group) tells us. And on the upper floors the mosaic laid corridors – some two miles of them – were once abuzz with running messenger boys.
Raffles London at the OWO
The former secretary of state’s office that at varying times belonged to Lord Kitchener, David Lloyd George, Churchill and John Profumo is being turned into a sprawling suite. The space directly overlooks Horse Guards, the historic military headquarters and home to the Household Cavalry Museum.
We’re also shown inside one of the turrets facing Whitehall complete with huge, curved glass windows which is a spectacular space for a guest room. In the middle portion of the hotel overlooking a large courtyard another suite, The Poppy, will occupy three storeys.
On completion the hotel will have a total of eleven restaurants and bars to be rolled out gradually. Three of them – a brasserie, a fine dining room and a chef’s table – will be overseen by chef Mauro Colagreco who has a three Michelin starred restaurant in France.
Raffles London at the OWO
A new addition is four subterranean floors underneath the existing building that will house a spa and health club including a swimming pool, gym, yoga studio, sauna and steam, partnering with Guerlain and Pillar.
Raffles at The OWO will also be open several days a year for tours, making the building and its fascinating history accessible to the public (as well as guests) for the first time.
All the passengers are settled into their seats and the train is about to depart when a dapper, mustachioed young man dressed in tweeds hurries through the carriage. “I don’t actually have a ticket, I’m looking for a compartment to hide in,” he announces before disappearing through the mahogany doors to the next car. While we are all left bemused in his wake, a pair of equally stylish women sashay through, murmuring among themselves about needing champagne.
We’re onboard Belmond’s British Pullman in Victoria Station, London for A Moving Murder Mystery journey. The immersive theatrical performance called Dead On Time has been created specifically for the train by Private Drama Events. Move over Murder on the Orient Express,it’s Murder on the British Pullman.
Before even leaving the station we have been transported back to 1951. Not just because of the lavish vintage pullman but a vivacious group are onboard who have been enjoying the Battersea Pleasure Gardens at the Festival of Britain. The real life exhibition and fair took place around the country and some of the British Pullman carriages – Cygnus, Perseus and Minerva – were part of a luxury train transporting passengers to and from attractions. For the purposes of the plot today we are to believe that we’re travelling on a pullman between the Festival’s locations.
As we sip on champagne, the news breaks that one of the glamorous group has been found dead. Our task is to figure out which of their number is the killer over the next few hours as the train travels from London via Canterbury to Dover and back while a gourmet lunch is served.
But before we tuck into Coronation guinea hen followed by asparagus soup and line-caught wild English seabass, at each of our place settings amid the bone china, silver cutlery and cut glass sits a magazine. The wittily titled Luxury LocoMotives is packed with information about the characters/suspects and littered with clues. As the train departs, passing Battersea’s Park and Power Station, a hush descends as everyone pores over their copy with a concentration that in-flight publication editors would envy.
I deduce that all the characters’ surnames correspond with the names of the British Pullman’s carriages including “Dr Bobby Cygnus”, a glamorous inventor, “Ivan Perseus”, a rakish tycoon and “Danny Zena”, a flamboyant jazz musician. We’re seated in Vera and its character namesake is Gordon Vera, a well-connected philanthropist.
All the train’s a stage as the actors flounce in and out of the carriages. “I suggest you go to the lavatory in pairs,” Felicity Gwen, a formidable high society hostess, advises us. “But no funny business.” Without giving too much way, the whole production is cleverly conceived and the actors, all dashingly dressed and perfectly coiffed and made up, play their parts to perfection.
Each suspect conveys their version of events of the previous 24 hours which may be vital clues or simply red herrings. There’s also a couple of nifty mentions of other Belmond properties – The Cadogan hotel in Chelsea and “the train to Venice” (Belmond also owns the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express).
Sometimes they cross paths with one another which leads to slick interaction. And us passengers are drawn into the drama as the actors address us directly, ask us questions and ad lib amusingly. Julie Ibis, a beguiling film star, doesn’t miss a beat when she spots my husband taking her picture while she’s reading out a piece of evidence that has come to light – she poses dramatically, giving her best angle.
Throughout all this, the Pullman stewards expertly serve a five course lunch, replenish wine glasses and chat to the passengers. Our engaging steward, Patrick, offers to take our photographs and jokes about accepting Haribos to divulge whodunnit. He also tells us that the late Nelson Mandela and a young Prince Charles, now King Charles III, once travelled in our carriage.
After dessert (coconut dacquoise with mango, passion fruit and pineapple cream) with an hour left to solve the murder, passengers are working through the evidence and discussing their theories. Some are involving fellow travellers across the aisle while others are happy just to sit back in their (very comfortable) armchairs and enjoy the show.
In the style of Hercule Poirot there’s a group denouement in each carriage to reveal the murderer as the train heads back into London. A young couple in our car who were the most diligent in questioning the suspects are rewarded for their super sleuthing with a prize. As for who did it, we are all sworn to secrecy until the chief inspector can be informed.
Dead On Time, A Moving Murder Mystery on the British Pullman runs twice monthly (once in September) until the end of November. See Belmond.com for more details.
I’m greeted by an elegant okami-san and led along a tiny but perfectly formed corridor of stone flooring flanked by cedar wood walls to beyond a noren where a counter is immaculately set up for dining. So far so Tokyo except I’m in London, tucked away on the first floor of the 45 Park Lane hotel.
This is Sushi Kanesaka the newest outpost from Japanese chef Shinji Kanesaka whose impressive restaurant empire spans several Michelin starred venues in Tokyo including his flagship two starred Ginza Sushi Kanesaka. He has also opened restaurants within five star hotels in Asia including at the Carlton and St Regis hotels in Singapore (which have one Michelin star apiece) and at the Palace Hotel, Tokyo.
Sushi Kanesaka at 45 Park Lane hotel, London
Opening on July 1st Sushi Kanesaka at 45 Park Lane in Mayfair will be Kanesaka’s first restaurant outside Asia and I’m visiting during the soft launch for a preview. The London establishment seats just nine at the main counter as well as a further four in an adjacent private dining room. An omakase (“I’ll leave it up to you”) menu of around 18 courses will be offered at two dinner sittings from Tuesdays to Saturdays at the set price of £420. Perfectly paired sake to accompany the dishes will cost a further £150 to £220.
Up until now London’s most expensive set menu has been at The Araki (which also has a branch in Hong Kong) at £310 per head for the sushi omakase, according to UK restaurant guide Harden’s. And in its 2023 guide Harden’s decreed the most expensive in Britain to be at Ynyshir a restaurant with guest rooms in mid Wales serving a tasting menu with Japanese, Chinese and Thai influences cooked over fire at £375 per head. By this reckoning Sushi Kanesaka will now have the UK’s most expensive set menu.
Shinji Kanesaka trained under the legendary chef Takashi Saito of Sushi Saito in Tokyo and continues to follow his Edomae style of sushi using cured fish rather than raw for optimum flavour. Core ingredients such as wasabi and rice will be shipped in from Japan (Kanesaka has his own blend of rice from Yamagata prefecture) while fish will be sourced from Europe including the UK such as Cornish crab and Scottish lobster. All the fish will undergo the Japanese ikejime method to ensure the best quality.
Sushi Kanesaka at 45 Park Lane hotel, London
From their seats at the counter – carved from a solid piece of hinoki wood as in Kanesaka’s other outlets – diners will be treated to the artful performance of the shokunin’s crafting dishes before each exquisite creation is carefully presented before them in succession. Mainly sushi as the restaurant name suggests but interspersed with steamed, grilled and fried dishes such as chawanmushi with fish soup, binchotan gilled kobe beef and ebifurai of lobster. And as is traditional with omakase, rounding off the savoury courses with a bowl of miso followed by seasonal Japanese fruits such as the most divine melon and mango from the Miyazaki prefecture.
Inside this calm oasis the stylishly simple décor of pale woods will be familiar to diners who’ve eaten at other Kanesaka establishments. A subtle reminder of the destination though is the woodwork panels featuring designs inspired by Hyde Park opposite the hotel on the other side of Park Lane.
The personable Kanesaka has been in London preparing with his team for the launch and will be in situ at the 45 Park Lane restaurant three to four times a year. The eight strong London team of chefs, sommeliers and hosts are mostly recruited from Kanesaka’s existing restaurants.
Sushi Kanesaka at 45 Park Lane hotel, London
The sushi artisan says he’s chosen the British capital for his first restaurant in Europe as “London is recognised world over as the epicentre of high end dining”. He also points to the attraction of 45 Park Lane, and the Dorchester Collection of hotels which it belongs to , having a stable of internationally renowned chefs and Michelin starred restaurants. 45 Park Lane is already home to Cut by Wolfgang Puck – the US based celebrity chef’s first in Europe – while sister hotel next door, The Dorchester, houses the three Michelin starred restaurant Alain Ducasse.
While Kanesaka is opening his first outpost in Europe, the Dorchester Collection which also has hotels in Paris, Italy and Los Angeles has announced plans for its first hotel in Asia. Based within the Torch Tower in Tokyo, the tallest building in Japan with panoramic views of the bay, the city centre and Mount Fuji, the hotel is slated to open in 2028.
[UPDATE: Gleneagles features on the inaugural Worlds’ 50 Best Hotels list at number 32.]
Over four seasons of hit HBO television series Succession the power struggles of the billionaire media mogul Logan Roy (Brian Cox) and his offspring has played out against a backdrop of beautiful locations.
The Roys, along with their business associates and love interests, have private jetted their way around some of the most luxurious and intriguing hotels and holiday rentals in the US and Europe.
As Succession fans go into mourning following the grand finale last week (and most likely rewatch the entire series from the beginning) here’s a look at the venues featured in the show you can stay at.
Maddox House
In the finale, With Open Eyes, the siblings Kendall (Jeremy Strong), Roman (Kieran Culkin) and Shiv Roy (Sarah Snook) all end up at their mother, Lady Caroline’s (Harriet Walter), house on Barbados. The idyllic estate with green shutters, lush terraces and large swimming pool is Maddox House in jet set magnet St James on the west coast of the island.
Renowned British theatre set designer Oliver Messel transformed the coastal house for himself in the 1960s and entertained his friends there including Hollywood stars and British royalty. The property was scouted for Succession by Emily FitzRoy owner of Bellini Travel who previously organised locations in Italy for season three (more of which later). For the first time Maddox House will be available for rental, price is on application. Contact Bellini Travel for more details.
Juvet Landscape Hotel
Kill List in season four saw Kendall, Roman and Shiv join tech tycoon Lukas Matsson’s (Alexander Skarsgård) company retreat ostensibly to finalise the sale of their father company, Waystar Royco to him.
The retreat took place at the real life Juvet Landscape Hotel on the northwest coast of Norway, an architecturally impressive resort set in a birch forest between a river and mountains. The Landscape Rooms which Kendall and Roman were shown staying in are wood and glass structures on stilts designed to maximise the views. Even the sauna, based beside a river, has a glass frontage to take in the scenery.
Gleneagles
In the season two episode Dundee, Logan returned to his home town in Scotland and stayed at Gleneagles in the Perthshire countryside about an hour’s drive from the city.
The lavish hotel is surrounded by mountains and all the rooms and suites are stylishly decorated with sumptuous fabrics.
Much of the filming took place in the light filled Glendevon room which is usually the venue for afternoon tea with views of the gardens.
Rancho Alegre
The Roy family gathered at eldest son/half-brother Connor’s (Alan Ruck) house for group therapy in season one. Austerlitz is both the name of the episode and the name of Napoleon obsessed Connor’s ranch in New Mexico. The real life location is the “nouveau Western chic” Rancho Alegre in Santa Fe.
The striking terracotta coloured compound is decorated with Native American and Hispanic influences, includes a recording studio, chapel and the infamous infinity pool. It’s bookable through Casas de Santa Fe, price available on request.
Oheka Castle
Standing in for a Hungarian castle in the Hunting episode in season two is Oheka Castle, which in reality is on Long Island in New York State.
The romantic looking mansion with turrets, sweeping staircases and ornamental gardens, was built for an American financier in 1919 and is now a hotel. All the guest rooms and suites are decorated in the style of the Gilded Age with mahogany beds and swagged curtains.
Whiteface Lodge
Also in season two the Argestes episode named after a fictitious tech and media retreat was filmed at Whiteface Lodge in Upstate New York. The luxuriously rustic (all dark wood, stone fireplaces and antlers) resort is in the Adirondack mountains on the shore of Lake Placid.
You could also visit nearby High Falls Gorge where Tom Wambsgans (Matthew Macfadyen) took the “culture hike” along the bridges and walkways, pursued by Cousin Greg (Nicholas Braun).
Rooms range from one bedroom suites to the four bedroom Presidential Suite which Logan stayed in, all cosily decorated with handcrafted Adirondack furnishings.
The Plaza New York
The Roys headed to Virginia for a political conference in Going For What It Takes in season three where Logan plotted over who he wanted to back as president of the United States. While the exterior shots are of The Jefferson Hotel in Richmond, the interiors were filmed at the Plaza Hotel in New York City.
Several scenes were shot in the public rooms and private event spaces at the Fifth Avenue hotel which overlooks the southside of Central Park.
Of course Logan held court in the Royal Suite which includes a dining room, library and massive master bedroom.
La Foce
For last two episodes of season three the Roys travelled to Italy. Firstly to Tuscany, or Chiantishire as the episode is called, where Logan’s ex-wife Lady Caroline got married again. The pre wedding drinks party was filmed at La Foce estate between Florence and Rome in Val d’Orcia which includes several properties for rental. The main house, Villa La Foce where most of the Roy family stayed, has 12 bedrooms and a swimming pool as well as magnificent gardens.
Villa Cetinale
The wedding in the All The Bells Say season three finale took place at the grand 17th century Villa Cetinale near Siena in the Tuscan countryside. The 13 bedroomed baroque style villa has its own chapel where the ceremony was filmed and beautiful gardens in which the eventful wedding reception was set.
Villa La Cassinella
In a storyline interwoven with Lady Caroline’s destination wedding Lukas Matsson is holed up at Villa La Cassinella on the western shore of Lake Como. The exclusive villa – only reachable by boat as Logan and Roman did – can accommodate up to 17 guests and includes a swimming pool, tennis court and gym.
The three Italian properties can be booked through Bellini Travel, prices on application.
[UPDATE: As Prince William announces the Earthshot Prize 2023 will be held in Singapore with a stunning video of the city state’s Marina Bay area including Gardens By The Bay, Chopstix looks back at the launch of the gardens.]
Five years and billions of dollars in the planning, Gardens by the Bay is now open. What began as reclaimed land has been transformed into a landscape of plants, flowers, sculptures and water features adjoining Marina Bay Sands.
Bay South Garden, the first and largest of three phases, covers 54 hectares and features two massive bio domes. Both domes are set to specific temperatures to replicate differing climates from around the world. The Flower Dome is cool dry, mimicking the Mediterranean and semi-arid regions such as Spain while the Cloud Forest is a cool moist climate similar to the Tropical Montane region. Both cooled conservatories allow for a stunning array of plants and flowers not usually seen in Singapore.
Another striking feature of Bay South Garden is the Super Tree Grove. Ranging from 25 to 50 metres high, these concrete and metal constructs have been planted with climbing flowers, ferns, bromeliads and orchids to beautiful effect. At the night, the trees are brought to life by a light and projection show.
If you have a head for heights you can also admire the trees from another vantage point – by taking an elevator up to the ariel walkway. This 22 metre high, 128 metre long bridge links between the trees to give a fantastic view of the gardens and Marina Bay.
Super Tree Grove at Gardens By The Bay, Singapore
Two themed gardens are included in Bay Garden South, mixing horticulture with education. The Heritage garden reflects the history and culture of Singapore’s main ethnic groups (Indian, Chinese and Malay) as well as its colonial heritage.
World of Plants, on the other hand, showcases the biodiversity of plant life with features including “the secret life of trees” and “world of palms”. Much more fun than learning in a classroom.
Sustainability is an important factor in Gardens by the Bay. Dragonfly Lake and Kingfisher Lake provide a natural filtration system for water from the gardens. Water run off from the gardens is captured by the lakes and then re used as an in built irrigation system for all the plants and flowers. It also provides a habitat for fishes and dragonflies.
Commenting at the opening Dr Kiat W Tan, CEO of Gardens by the Bay said: “it is a place in which families, friends and communities can take time out, relax and create new and lasting memories. Our mission is to create a distinctive People’s Garden that would be cherished and well patronised.”
Netflix’s Queen Charlotte is the backstory of the wife of King George III as we’ve come to know her on Bridgerton, beginning when the young princess arrived in Britain to marry the monarch. Showrunner Shonda Rhimes says the prequel to Bridgerton came about as both she and Netflix CEO Ted Sarandos’ mother-in-law are “obsessed” with the Queen Charlotte character. If your interest in the real life 18th century queen consort has been similarly sparked, here’s how you can follow in her footsteps.
A good place to start is the newly opened Style & Society: Dressing the Georgians at The Queen’s Gallery, Buckingham Palace (on until October 8th, not Tuesdays or Wednesdays). Queen Charlotte features prominently in this fascinating exhibition showing Georgian fashion primarily through portraiture from The Royal Collection. There are many paintings of the queen including a life size portrait in her coronation robe (above) by the king’s principal painter, Allan Ramsay; several depicting Charlotte with her family by one of her favourite artists, Johan Zoffany, and – star of the exhibition – a rarely displayed full length portrait (below) by Thomas Gainsborough.
Some of Charlotte’s jewellery and personal artefacts are also on display. Most interestingly the queen’s psalm book wrapped with elaborate fabric from one of her dresses, a needlework bag which she embroidered herself and a ring bearing a miniature of her husband given to her on her wedding day.
George III bought Buckingham House (now Buckingham Palace) for Queen Charlotte in 1761 as a private residence away from the nearby official royal residence St James’s. Charlotte liked it so much and spent so much time there it was renamed The Queen’s House.
The main body of Buckingham House remains where the State Rooms of Buckingham Palace are today. After George and Charlotte’s day the house was remodelled and extended, mainly under the reigns of their son, George IV, and then Queen Victoria (their grand-daughter) into the palace it is now. Full length portraits of Charlotte hang above the Grand Staircase, Green Drawing Room and East Gallery in the State Rooms.
The Queen’s Gallery has a separate entrance and no access to Buckingham Palace itself but you can gain entrance to the State Rooms during the ten week Summer Opening which in 2023 runs from 14th July to 24th September.
As a keen amateur botanist Queen Charlotte was big supporter of Kew Gardens which was founded by her mother in law, Princess Augusta. The queen enjoyed cataloguing and drawing the exotic flowers and plants at Kew. Today the botanical gardens on the outskirts of south west London is a wonderfully bucolic attraction with plant filled borders, dells, woodlands and temperate houses to explore.
George III bought what’s now called Kew Palace in the grounds as a summer retreat for the royal family. The diminutive (for a palace) building was built in the Dutch style of architecture originally as a house for a wealthy Flemish merchant. Its red brick and gables make for an eye catching sight. Charlotte actually died in the house and her bedroom has been conserved as it was in her lifetime. A Netflix spokesperson says although they weren’t able to film there Queen Charlottelocations manager, Tony Hood, and his team visited Kew Palace for inspiration.
Situated about as far away as you can get from the Palace in the south west of Kew Gardens , Queen Charlotte’s Cottage, was built not as a residence but as place for refreshments when the Queen went for walks in the extensive gardens. The rustic cottage is set in a bluebell wood and the adjoining paddock is where animals, including at one time kangaroos, were kept by the royals.
Both the Palace and the Cottage are open to the public from April until September 24th, the Cottage at weekends and bank holidays only.
Frogmore House, Windsor
Not to be confused with Frogmore Cottage, also on the Windsor Estate, which the Duke and Duchess of Sussex briefly lived in and have recently been asked to vacate (although they were allowed to hold their wedding evening reception at the grander Frogmore House). Queen Charlotte bought the house in the 1790s as a retreat from Windsor Castle and the increasing illness of her husband.
The queen and her daughters painted and studied botany there and Charlotte’s love of botany influenced the décor of what is now called the Mary Moser Room. Moser, a celebrated 18th century flower painter, was commissioned by the queen to decorate the walls and ceilings and her design can still be seen today.
Charlotte also commissioned the creation of Frogmore’s picturesque gardens (where Harry and Meghan had their engagement photos taken) adding paths, glades, mounts, lakes and bridges as well as the planting of over 4,000 trees and shrubs.
Frogmore House is usually open to the public on certain days in August, this year’s dates are TBC.
[UPDATE All eyes are on Buckingham Palace this week as King Charles III prepares for his Coronation. Chopstix looks back to what it’s like to visit the Summer Opening of The State Rooms. Dates for 2023 are Friday, 14 July to Sunday, 24 September.]
Walking up the red carpeted, gold leafed, double pronged Grand Staircase, it’s hard not to channel “You shall go to the ball!” I’m at Buckingham Palace to visit the State Rooms which are open to the public this summer, until October 2nd, for the first time since 2019. Chopstix had a preview of the self guided tour – a week later Jeff Bezos apparently booked on the Exclusive Evening Tour.
The State Rooms, where the British royal family meet and entertain official visitors, lie deep beyond the famous façade, in the West Wing of the Palace. Entry for the paying public (tickets for adults are £30 with concessions available) is not through the front gates but at the side on Buckingham Palace Road. Though once through “airport-style security” (where they are much more polite than at any airport I’ve been to) we access the same grand rooms as the dignitaries.
But first we’re given a few rules – no chewing of gum (“you can’t imagine where we find it”), no photographs of the State Rooms and no loos until the end of the tour.
Buckingham Palace Grand Staircase. Photographer: Derry Moore. The Royal Collection Trust Her Majesty Elizabeth II
First taste of the splendour is the aptly named Grand Staircase. The theatrical look is not accidental – the staircase was designed, like all The State Rooms, by John Nash who had a background in theatre set design. George 1V commissioned Nash to transform the then Buckingham House into a palace. Even the most jaded person couldn’t fail to be awed by the sheer magnificence and exquisite craftsmanship.
The self-guided tour (the free audio guide gives interesting insight into the history, art and design details) loops through the 19 State Rooms. Each room flows on to the next and the dramatic Throne Room comes so early on it can take you by surprise. Through the glorious in its own right Green Drawing Room my eye is drawn to two prominently placed thrones in the next room.
The theatrics are dialled up to maximum in the Throne Room: wall to wall crimson red with several crystal chandeliers and of course, thrones. One is embroidered “ER II” and the other, poignantly, “P” for the late Prince Philip. Fans of Prince William and Kate Middleton will recognise the room as the setting for the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding portraits.
We are gently guided one way through the Palace by a subtly roped off areas. Uniformed staffers are positioned along the route, probably to check we don’t touch or photograph anything but all unfailingly friendly.
The Picture Gallery has recently been renovated as part of a massive repair plan for the Palace. The long, glass roofed room is lined with works by the world’s most famous painters including Rembrandt, Rubens and Vermeer.
The presence of Queen Victoria looms large in the next room, the East Gallery, which is packed with portraits of the monarch and her family. Each year the Summer Opening includes a special display in the Ball Supper Room, commissioned by Victoria and based between the East Gallery and the Ballroom.
In the enormous Ballroom, commissioned by Queen Victoria as she was running out of space for guests in the Blue Drawing Room. Today the lavish space is used for state banquets and investitures.
Following on from here the rest of the State Rooms overlook the Palace’s vast grounds. While there’s an initial urge to gawp at the garden, the sheer magnificence of the interiors ultimately keeps your interest inside. This run of rooms is the grandest including the Music Room, originally known as the Bow Drawing Room, with its striking blue columns and where Prince Charles was christened, and culminating in the ravishing White Drawing Room which includes a secret door used by the royals.
Downstairs, we walk through the Marble Hall which was created specifically to house marble sculptures. At the bottom of the stairs themselves is a full length sculpture of Mars and Venus carved from a single block.
The tour then leads out through the Bow Room to the garden where, conveniently, there’s a cafe set up on the West Terrace. Overlooking the lawn and lake, it’s a pleasant spot to sit for a coffee in a Buckingham Palace branded paper cup.
For more amusing Buckingham Palace branded merchandise there’s a large shop strategically placed on the way out of the grounds. You may also be tempted to stock up on an (admittedly cute) stuffed toy corgi or a bottle of royal gin.
As a bonus the way out is a seven minute walk around the edge of the gardens. Exiting on a busy London road which leads to The Goring hotel (where Catherine and the Middleton family spent the night before her wedding to Prince William) in one direction and Hyde Park Corner in the other, no carriage awaits me. Before I set off on foot though I do feel as if I should check for a pumpkin with six mice.
Lily Rose Depp wearing Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2017 Pic: Lucile Perron
When Sofi Richie got married at Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Antibes, South of France last week she wore not one but three Chanel couture gowns: one for the rehersal dinner, one for the wedding ceremony and one for the evening reception. Here’s a look back at when Chopstix had a behind the scenes look at what goes into a Chanel couture bridal gown.
“A wedding is very special at Chanel,” says Madame Marie-Louise de Clermont-Tonnerre, the gloriously named and exquisitely dressed international spokeswoman who oversees the house’s couture division. The House of Chanel shares the same superstitions as other bridal establishments: garters are encouraged, the presence of anyone other than the bride’s mother and bridesmaids at the fittings is discouraged, and the groom is not allowed to see the dress beforehand to guard against bad luck – but there the similarities end.
“We don’t have racks of wedding dresses here. And a wedding dress is never reproduced – never ever,” says Madame Marie-Louise. “If you order it then it is yours, no one will have it again. For couture we can sometimes have two ladies wearing the same dress but with bridal, never.”
Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2017 Pic: Olivier Saillant
Number 31 Rue Cambon, Paris is steeped in tradition. The Chanel headquarters have been based on this narrow street, just along from the Ritz (so near that Coco Chanel once lived at the hotel), since 1923 and at its heart lies the coveted couture division. From a fairly unremarkable street level entrance, albeit one guarded by a security man, a curved Art Deco staircase leads up to the first floor salon.
Alternate cream and black leather chairs are laid out in neat rows for customers and journalists to view the twice yearly couture collections. Leading off here is the VIP room where an elite clientele choose from the collection and the ensuing fittings take place. [UPDATE: with the influx of Asian clients, Chanel also now holds intimate shows in China, Hong Kong and Tokyo.]
Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2017
For the customer, everything starts with the shows. “Ideally the bride should have gone to all the couture shows to choose the best one and of course she will choose Chanel!” says Marie-Louise. After the show she will make an appointment to discuss her choice and any adaptations she would like. These are all subject to Karl Lagerfeld’s approval, no changes are ever made to his designs without his permission.
Over a period of six to eight weeks a minimum of three fittings will take place: the first with the outfit made up in toile (a simple muslin fabric) and the last being a dress rehearsal complete with veil or hat and any jewellery to be worn on the day. “It’s obligatory,” says Marie-Louise explaining that it’s important to see the ensemble as a whole.
Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel couture Spring 2017 with “the bride” Pic: Lucile Perron
Beyond the public spaces at Rue Cambon lies a warren of offices and workrooms sprawling over several floors where all the hard work takes place. On the fourth floor, overlooking the street and flooded with light from the enormous windows, is Karl Lagerfeld’s studio, once where Chanel herself designed and still bearing the words Mademoiselle – Prive – on the door. Dotted around the five floors are the three ateliers – one for tailoring, two for more fluid pieces like eveningwear – where the designs are turned into reality by a team of 100 workers.
Traditionally a robe de marriage is sent out at the end of the couture collection each season. Sometimes though the designated bridal design is not ‘the one’. “When Karl presents a wedding dress, possibly a bride wouldn’t want that one so we adapt,” says Marie-Louise. One season for instance a client ordered the bridal gown without the train, but more usually an evening dress will be chosen from the couture collection and modified. One second time around bride chose a white boucle coat for her winter wedding while another chose a jacket and pants worn with a veil and Chanel’s signature camellia. The now former wife of a famous musician tied the knot in a jacket from the technical ski collection.
Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2017
Mostly though, a wildly romantic evening dress such as La Rose – a pretty pleated tulle gown in pale pink – is chosen. An American client has expressed an interest in the design though Marie-Louise points out the decollete will have to be modified as she thinks it’s too revealing for a wedding. “For France, anyway,” she adds: “but maybe not for America.” All the pleats have been sewn by hand, graduating almost imperceptibly in width as the dress progresses towards the floor. The colour also graduates very subtly from palest pink at the top towards a slightly rosier shade at the hem. Only one person worked on this dress to ensure that the graduation was seamless, and it took a total of 200 hours to make.
At Madame Cecile’s atelier, men and women known as les petits mains (the little hands) are dressed in white coats and sitting at large table strewn with pencils, rulers and every conceivable shade of thread. They work on (seemingly) random delicate fragments of fabric, a pink silk bodice here, a black tulle sleeve there – that will go to make up a luxurious whole. Mannequins shaped and padded to resemble specific bodies and with discreet labels bearing names are dotted around the room. On the walls are sketches and Polaroids of the latest collection.
Madame Cecile is distinguishable by the absence of white coat and presence of cream and black Chanel tank and skirt. A small purse with telltale chain strap and interlocking Cs hangs around her neck, holding all the accoutrements of her craft. As premiere of the atelier, the highly skilled job of cutting fabric will only be entrusted to her or a specialist cutter under her supervision. She then decides who will work on a particular part of the dress. Between one and three “hands” will work on a wedding dress depending on the complexity of the dessing. The pleats, tucks, frills and ruffles are left to the more experienced hands and the beading, buttons, feathers and flowers are given to specialist companies such as Lesage, Lemarie and Desrues which have supported the couture industry for decades.
“The lady who made the dress will dress the bride at the final fitting says Marie-Louise. “It’s a very special relationship between the client and her fitter.” In the past, finished bridal gowns, like any couture purchase, have been wrapped in tissue paper and packaged in custom made boxes. The modern bride, however, prefers a light garment carrier as it’s easier for storage.
At the most lavish weddings the bridesmaids are also dressed in Chanel. One bride chose to have her dress – a printed taffeta in sweet colours – copied six times for child flower girls. “It’s very expensive,” stresses Marie-Louise. And this in a place where a couture gown (costing a minimum of tens of thousands of pounds to around £100,000) is referred to as “quite expensive”.
Later, from a room adjacent to the salon, La Rose is whisked out of the glass cabinets where it has been waiting with some other samples to be tried on by prospective clients. This particular frock is bound for New York where one lucky bride to be awaits.
The much covered Gwyneth Paltrow skiing incident court trial has caught the attention for many reasons including the actress blocking her face from photographers with a large blue notebook.
The notebook in question is by British luxury brand Smythson and looks like a Portobello with a Panama crossgrain lambskin leather in Lapis Blue.
The Portobello’s featherweight paper in Smythson’s signature blue are gilt edged and the notebook also features a ribbon to match the Lapis cover. It retails at US$325 with an option for personalisation with up to three initials, which Gwyneth choose, at an extra cost.
Top Chef, the Bravo TV show hosted by Tom olicchio, Padma Lakshmi and Gail Simmons, celebrated its twentieth season by filming entirely outside of the US with the World All Star “cheftestants” checking in to the Kimpton Fitzroy London.
This imposing terracotta tiled and turreted mansion on Russell Square – between Covent Garden and The City – first opened as a hotel in 1898 and has recently been refurbished and rebranded.
The Kimpton Fitzroy London (the name is a nod to the original architect of the Russell Hotel, Charles Fitzroy Doll) retains the Victorian grandeur including marble columns, mosaic floor tiles and soaring ceilings. Fitzroy Doll also designed the First Class Dining Room on the Titanic – taking inspiration from the Russell.
But the hotel has been brought firmly into the present with the help of top interior designers including Tara Bernerd and Russell Sage.
The lobby at the Kimpton Fitzroy London hotel
Tara Bernerd has brought a cool and calming aesthetic to the guest rooms and suites. These range from City Singles rooms featuring custom made single beds with wraparound headboards the Speciality Suites featuring four poster beds and roll top baths.
A Suite at the Kimpton Fitzroy London hotel
Of the several F&B outlets, Burr & Co is a casual space for a meeting over coffee, Galvin Bar & Grill serves a contemporary British menu, the Palm Court is the place for afternoon tea while Fitz’s, designed by Russell Sage, has an opulent fin de siècle feel for evening drinks.
The Palm Court at the Kimpton Fitzroy London
A clutch of private dining and meeting rooms are available and there’s a 24 hour gym if/when jet lag strikes.
[UPDATE The White Lotus season two was filmed at the Four Seasons at San Domenico Palace (above), Taormina on the Italian island of Sicily. The hotel is set in a 14 century former convent overlooking the Ionian sea, Mount Etna and a Greek amphitheatre. The setting for the HBO series follows on from a glut of Italian locations featuring in American productions last year. For more read on. ]
La Foce, Tuscany HBO Go Succession
Italy must have been crawling with famous actors and film crews this year. From television series Succession and The Morning Show to the House of Gucci movie, Italy was the setting for several scenes on the small and big screens. While you may have vicariously been under the Tuscan sun and on a Roman holiday by watching this winter, here are the locations you can visit when restrictions are finally lifted.
Tuscany
The penultimate episode of HBO’s Succession season three sees the super rich Roy family on who the show centres, travel from New York to Italy. The aptly named Emily FitzRoy founder of exclusive travel company Bellini was enlisted to find locations.
Firstly in Tuscany, or Chiantishire as the episode is called – the region’s portmanteau nickname in the 1990s referencing the red wine and the English home county “shires”. Logan Roy’s (Brian Cox) ex-wife and Kendall (Jeremy Strong), Shiv (Sarah Snook) and Roman’s (Kieran Culkin) mother, Caroline Collingwood (Harriet Walter), gets re married and the setting is two private estates that are available to rent in real life.
La Foce between Florence and Rome and overlooking the bucolic Val d’Orcia is where Caroline’s al fresco drinks party takes place. These terraced, formal gardens are open to visitors on certain days from May to November.
And the yellow hued Villa La Foce is where most of the Roy family stay (and is available to rent from 35,000 euros a week FitzRoy tells me). The estranged Kendall and his children stay at one of the estate’s other properties, Belvedere Piccolo, which includes *that* swimming pool which can be rented at around 1,650 euros a week.
HBO GO -SUCCESSION S3 – Tom Wambsgans (Matthew Mcfayden) at Villa Cetinale, Tuscany
The wedding takes place at 17th century, Villa Cetinale near Siena. The 13 bedroom Baroque style villa is available to rent also from 35,000 euros a week FitzRoy says. The spectacular gardens, where the reception takes place, are also open to visitors by appointment only when the villa is not let.
Caroline’s “bachelorette party” takes place in the pretty hilltop, walled town of Cortona. About an hour’s drive away in Pienza, the Roy siblings are filmed meeting at La Terrazza del Chiostro restaurant where the panoramic views from the terrace are main draw.
HBO GO – Succession S3 – Caroline (Harriet Walter) and Shiv (Sarah Snook) in Cortona, Tuscany
Lake Como
Tech tycoon Lukas Matsson’s (Alexander Skarsgard) luxurious lair is Villa La Cassinella on the western shore of Lake Como. Logan and Roman arrive by helicopter at the villa’s private landing pad and then take a boat across the lake to Cassinella. “They arrived as any guest would, you cannot arrive by car – the only other alternative is by sea plane,” FitzRoy tells me. Although it costs upwards of 130,000 euros a week to rent, Fitzroy says the property gets booked up years in advance.
Villa La Cassinella, Lake Como HBO GO Succession S3 Lukas Mattson (Alexander Skarsgard) and Roman Roy (Kieran Culkin)
Filming also took place along this stretch of Lake Como for Ridley Scott’s House of Gucci movie. Villa Balbiano built in the 16th century stands in for Aldo Gucci’s (Al Pacino) house. Fast forward to the 21st century and the waterside villa is available for private rental at 175,000 Euros per week. Inside are original frescoes, museum worthy antiques and six suites designed by fashionable hotel designer Jacques Garcia.
Don’t look for the villa from Apple TV+’s The Morning Show here though. In the second season shamed anchorman Mitch Kessler (Steve Carell) is seen hiding out in a grand villa that appears to be on the shores of Lake Como where Alex Levy (Jennifer Aniston) tracks him down. Filming actually took place at a private school in California however with drone shots of Lake Como added in.
Milan
In the House of Gucci, Rodolfo’s (Jeremy Irons) imagined home is the striking 1930s Villa Necchi Campiglio. Set in private gardens in the centre of Milan it is now a museum.
On an early date in the film, Maurizio Gucci (Adam Driver) and Patrizia Reggiana (Lady Gaga) visit the gloriously ornate Galleria Vittorio Emanuele 11 shopping arcade between the Duomo and Teatro alla Scala. The restaurant they pass there, Savini, which Reggiana says is “too expensive” has been a Milanese stalwart for composers and opera singers since 1867. When I visited a few years ago there was a quaintly named “Lunch for Ladies in Shopping” set menu and Savini’s website currently states, “an elegant dress code is appreciated”.
Rome
Both Pacino and Gaga’s characters visit the real life Gucci store on Via Condotti, near the Spanish Steps, which is packed with designer boutiques. The Guccis opened their first shop outside their native Florence in Rome although the current day boutique is a few doors down from the original.
Also in Rome, the picturesque Church of Santa Maria in Portico in Campitelli is where the Maurizio and Patrizia wedding was filmed although in reality the couple were married in Milan.
Gressoney
Adam Driver and Lady Gaga as Maurizio and Patrizia Gucci in House of Gucci. Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Pictures Inc.
In the film Maurizio evades the police on his motorbike and crosses over the snowy Swiss border to St Moritz. Filming actually took place in the Italian Alps, at the Gressoney-Saint-Jean and Gressoney-La-Trinite in the Aosta Valley. Although scenic, the resorts are far less glitzy than St Moritz and the runs are for advanced skiers only being mainly red and black as well as off-piste.
Incidentally, founder of the fashion house, Guccio Gucci, was once a bell boy at The Savoy in London. Author of the book House of Gucci Sara Gay Forden says Guccio’s experience of handling The Savoy guests’ expensive luggage inspired him to create the Gucci fashion brand. The Savoy has temporarily restyled its Royal Suite in homage to the Gucci house.
[This post was originally posted in January 2022.]
[UPDATE: Lift 109 is now open. Otel Art is due to open on December 12th 2022.]
Battersea Power Station, the distinctive brick building with four white chimneys on the banks of the River Thames in south west London, has lain empty for nearly four decades. But now the vast nine acre property (St Paul’s Cathedral could fit inside its Boiler Room alone) is opening to the public for the first time having been transformed into a retail and leisure destination.
Over 100 shops, restaurants, bars and cafes will be housed in the former power station as well as a cinema, apartments and offices – Apple are moving in in January. Sixty outlets will open on October 14th, a second raft will follow before Christmas and the rest in time for Easter 2023.
Battersea Power Station Turbine Hall A Credit: Backdrop Productions
From 1933 to 1983, water from the Thames was heated by coal in the furnaces at Battersea Power Station which in turn supplied electricity to swathes of London. Buckingham Palace and the Houses of Parliament were among them – they were code named in the control room as Carnaby Street Two and Three. But when the station was decommissioned because of concerns over air quality it remained redundant save for the odd fashion show and several film shoots.
Various owners (including a Hong Kong developer) came and went as did ideas, from a theme park to a stadium for Chelsea Football Club. For years the station looked like it was destined to stay idle. Then in 2012 a consortium of Malaysian investors – Sime Darby Property, Setia, The Employees Provident Fund and Permodalan Nasional Berhad – bought the site.
Uncoincidentally visitors entering through the main South side entrance will do so via Malaysia Square – a newly constructed public piazza with a striking terraced design in homage to Malaysian landscapes. The South entrance is nearest the swish new tube station on the Northern Line. There’s also a North entrance next to the river and where once the coal arrived on the jetty, accessible by water bus or via the bridge from Chelsea.
Turbina Hall A, Battersea Power Station Credit: John Sturrock
As I walk through the former turbine halls a week before opening as fit outs are being finalised I see signage for a mix of recognisable brands from high street to high end, spanning fashion, beauty, sportswear and watches. Pop ups by independent retailers will also be a regular factor.
Although it looks like a single building, the Power Station was originally built in two parts: the first, Turbine Hall A, is ornately art deco while in contrast Turbine Hall B which was built in the 1950s is strikingly stark. The outlets are not grouped in themes as each was left to choose what part of the site they wanted to be in.
Battersea Power Station Credit: John Sturrock
Architects WilkinsonEyre who have offices in London, Hong Kong and Sydney, have retained the Power Station’s sense of scale as well as the industrial feel of the building. The north and south entrance atriums have been left open up to the roof.
There’s polished concrete floor and exposed brick walls; original gantries have been left in place and steel walkway bridges added. Even the mechanisms of the newly installed lifts and escalators are deliberately on display. Black bricks on the floor of both halls outline the positions of the original turbines while salvaged machinery placed in the North atrium looks like an art installation.
Among the first tranche of openings is a boutique cinema with comfy armchairs and individual tables for your glass of wine or cup of coffee. And what was formerly Control Room B has been turned into a 1950s style bar, run by the popular immersive hospitality group, Inception. Overlooking the turbine hall, the bar retains the original stainless steel control panels arranged in an arc reminiscent of a Fifties Sci Fi film and staff will be dressed in white boiler suits for that added mad scientist feel.
Battersea Power Station Control Room B
Opening Day, Turbine Hall B, Battersea Power Station
While a number of eateries will open in October, a 24,000 sq ft food hall will follow early next year run by one of London’s most impressive restaurateurs, JKS. Arcade Food Hall will go into the former Boiler Room and judging by the success of the group’s existing ventures, which cover the cuisines of Asia, Europe, the Middle East and the US, it will be worth the wait.
Set to be an attraction in its own right is Lift 109, located in one of the four chimneys (they have all been painstakingly recreated as the originals could not be saved). A circular glass elevator will ascend 109 metres, protruding above the smokestack, for a panoramic view of London.
A luxury lifestyle hotel overlooking the Power Station and Malaysia Square is due to open on November 15th. Art’otel will include a roof garden, an infinity pool and a top floor restaurant with food by Henrique Sá Pessoa who has a two Michelin starred place in Portugal. As the name suggests artworks will feature throughout the hotel, inspired by the heritage of Battersea Power Station.
[UPDATE: Emma Raducanu will no longer be visiting the Amilla Maldives Resort for this event. Emma’s tennis clinic had been due to take place on October 27th.]
Former US Open champion Emma Raducanu will be visiting Amilla Maldives Resort and Residences this autumn to share her skills with guests. The British tennis player whose mother is Chinese and father Romanian will be visiting Amilla Maldives Resort in Baa Atoll, Maldives, as part of Amilla’s Festival of Life running from October 25th until November 1st.
Emma will offer guests a 60-minute tennis clinic at the resort’s court, set in the jungle at the heart of the island and recently refurbished to US Open standards. She will also attend a meet and greet event at the resort, and hopes to encourage even more people of all ages to play tennis.
“I’m delighted to discover the Maldives for the first time and I would like to thank Amilla Maldives Resort and Residences for this opportunity. I will share my experience with the guests and have an amazing time there,” says Emma.
Emma’s masterclass for guests is being organised in conjunction with LUX Tennis, the operator of Amilla’s tennis activities. Amilla Maldives regularly hosts tennis pros throughout the year and has a regular resident pro on hand to coach resort guests.
Harrods annual Christmas bear has arrived – welcome to Louie, the luxury store’s 2022 yuletide teddy. Harrods began selling teddy bears in 1906 and Louie’s green knitted jacket is not only a nod to the brand’s signature colour but to its first Christmas bear, launched in 1986. And Louie has more green credentials – he is Harrods’ first teddy to be made from recyclable plush. Meet Louie in store or online at
[FURTHER UPDATE The Queen’s Gallery at Buckingham Palace will reopen to visitors on Thursday, 22 September. The Summer Opening of the State Rooms at Buckingham Palace and the Royal Mews will not reopen to the public in 2022. The special displays at Buckingham Palace, Windsor Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse marking the Platinum Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II will not reopen.]
[UPDATE The State Rooms at Buckingham Palace are closed until further notice following the death of Queen Elizabeth II on September 8th. The Queen’s coffin is being brought to Buckingham Palace from Scotland on the evening of September 13th and will rest in the Bow Room and then the Throne Room for family and staff respectively to pay their respects. The Queen’s coffin will leave Buckingham Palace at 2.22pm on September 14th to lie in in state at Westminster Hall. Rest in Peace your Majesty]
Walking up the red carpeted, gold leafed, double pronged Grand Staircase, it’s hard not to channel “You shall go to the ball!” I’m at Buckingham Palace to visit the State Rooms which are open to the public this summer, until October 2nd, for the first time since 2019. Chopstix had a preview of the self guided tour – a week later Jeff Bezos apparently booked on the Exclusive Evening Tour.
The State Rooms, where the British royal family meet and entertain official visitors, lie deep beyond the famous façade, in the West Wing of the Palace. Entry for the paying public (tickets for adults are £30 with concessions available) is not through the front gates but at the side on Buckingham Palace Road. Though once through “airport-style security” (where they are much more polite than at any airport I’ve been to) we access the same grand rooms as the dignitaries.
But first we’re given a few rules – no chewing of gum (“you can’t imagine where we find it”), no photographs of the State Rooms and no loos until the end of the tour.
Buckingham Palace Grand Staircase. Photographer: Derry Moore. The Royal Collection Trust Her Majesty Elizabeth II
First taste of the splendour is the aptly named Grand Staircase. The theatrical look is not accidental – the staircase was designed, like all The State Rooms, by John Nash who had a background in theatre set design. George 1V commissioned Nash to transform the then Buckingham House into a palace. Even the most jaded person couldn’t fail to be awed by the sheer magnificence and exquisite craftsmanship.
The self-guided tour (the free audio guide gives interesting insight into the history, art and design details) loops through the 19 State Rooms. Each room flows on to the next and the dramatic Throne Room comes so early on it can take you by surprise. Through the glorious in its own right Green Drawing Room my eye is drawn to two prominently placed thrones in the next room.
The theatrics are dialled up to maximum in the Throne Room: wall to wall crimson red with several crystal chandeliers and of course, thrones. One is embroidered “ER II” and the other, poignantly, “P” for the late Prince Philip. Fans of Prince William and Kate Middleton will recognise the room as the setting for the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding portraits.
We are gently guided one way through the Palace by a subtly roped off areas. Uniformed staffers are positioned along the route, probably to check we don’t touch or photograph anything but all unfailingly friendly.
The Picture Gallery has recently been renovated as part of a massive repair plan for the Palace. The long, glass roofed room is lined with works by the world’s most famous painters including Rembrandt, Rubens and Vermeer.
The presence of Queen Victoria looms large in the next room, the East Gallery, which is packed with portraits of the monarch and her family. Each year the Summer Opening includes a special display in the Ball Supper Room, commissioned by Victoria and based between the East Gallery and the Ballroom.
For 2022 in celebration of the Queen’s seventy year reign the exhibition is Platinum Jubilee: The Queen’s Accession featuring portraits taken by official Royal photographer, the late Dorothy Wilding.
Wildings’ photographs were the basis for Queen’s image on British stamps, bank notes and coins. The portraits were also distributed to British embassies around the world.
Dorothy Wilding portrait of the Queen. Royal Collection Trust/All Rights Reserved
Past the exhibition the tour resumes in the enormous Ballroom, commissioned by Queen Victoria as she was running out of space for guests in the Blue Drawing Room. Today the lavish space is used for state banquets and investitures.
Following on from here the rest of the State Rooms overlook the Palace’s vast grounds. While there’s an initial urge to gawp at the Queen’s back garden, the sheer magnificence of the interiors ultimately keeps your interest inside. This run of rooms is the grandest including the Music Room, originally known as the Bow Drawing Room, with its striking blue columns and where Prince Charles was christened, and culminating in the ravishing White Drawing Room which includes a secret door used by the royals.
Downstairs, we walk through the Marble Hall which was created specifically to house marble sculptures. At the bottom of the stairs themselves is a full length sculpture of Mars and Venus carved from a single block.
The tour then leads out through the Bow Room to the garden where, conveniently, there’s a cafe set up on the West Terrace. Overlooking the lawn and lake, it’s a pleasant spot to sit for a coffee in a Buckingham Palace branded paper cup.
For more amusing Buckingham Palace branded merchandise there’s a large shop strategically placed on the way out of the grounds. You may also be tempted to stock up on an (admittedly cute) stuffed toy corgi or a bottle of Her Majesty’s gin.
As a bonus the way out is a seven minute walk around the edge of the gardens. Exiting on a busy London road which leads to “the Queen’s favourite hotel” The Goring in one direction and Hyde Park Corner in the other, no carriage awaits me. Before I set off on foot though I do feel as if I should check for a pumpkin with six mice.
[FURTHER UPDATE: The Summer Opening of the State Rooms at Buckingham Palace and the Royal Mews will not reopen to the public in 2022. The special displays at Buckingham Palace, Windsor Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse marking the Platinum Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II will not reopen.]
[UPDATE: The State Rooms at Buckingham Palace are closed following the death yesterday of Queen Elizabeth II. Rest in Peace your Majesty.]
Jewellery from Queen Elizabeth II’s personal collection can be seen in a dazzling exhibition at Buckingham Palace. Platinum Jubilee: The Queen’s Accession features magnificent pieces which have a special significance for Her Majesty.
These include a stunning platinum necklace set with 300 diamonds – a wedding present from the Nizam of Hyderabad. The Nizam had left instructions with Cartier in London that the then Princess Elizabeth should select a gift there herself.
Another Cartier piece, an art deco style sapphire and diamond bracelet, was an 18th birthday present from the Queen’s father King George VI. On her 21st birthday she was given a Garrard & Co brilliant-cut diamond necklace by the Government and Union of South Africa. Originally the necklace encompassed 21 diamonds however it was shortened in 1952 and the six removed stones were made into a matching bracelet which is also on display.
The pretty Dorset Bow Brooch, part of a wedding gift from the Queen’s grandmother, dates back to 1893 when there was a fashion for diamond set brooches replicating a ribbon tied in a bow.
On the Queen’s accession in 1953 a portrait sitting was arranged for use on bank notes, coins and postage stamps but the new monarch could not wear a crown as her Coronation had not yet taken place. A suitably regal diamond diadem originally made for King George 1V in 1821 was chosen instead. Now one of Her Majesty’s most recognisable jewellery pieces, the striking headband is set with 1,333 brilliant-cut diamonds.
One of the most eye catching displays is the Delhi Durbar necklace and earrings by Garrard & Co. The necklace incorporates nine emeralds as well as an 8.8 carat diamond pendant cut from the Cullinan diamond – the largest ever found.
All the jewellery is exhibited alongside portraits by official Royal photographer, the late Dorothy Wilding, which show the Queen wearing them.
In one portrait The Queen wears the Delhi Durbar necklace with the Vladimir Tiara – the emerald and diamond headpiece that is thought to have been the one coveted by Meghan Markle for her wedding to Prince Harry.
Platinum Jubilee: The Queen’s Accession is on now until 2 October 2022. For more information visit www.rct.uk
The instructions were to arrive at “the Spies Entrance” in Whitehall at 6 o’clock sharp. This intriguing missive was not an assignation with M or Moneypenny but an invite to take a “first look” at Raffles London at the OWO (the Old War Office) – the Singapore hotel brand’s inaugural UK outpost, owned in part by the Hinduja Group.
Completed in 1906, the building was the centre of operations through two world wars and home to the British secret service. Lawrence of Arabia had a desk here and James Bond creator Ian Fleming was a regular visitor. It’s no coincidence that several Bond films had scenes shot at the OWO including Skyfall where Daniel Craig’s 007 stands on top of the building looking moodily over the rooftops. Alas the hotel will not be open in time for the 60th anniversary of James Bond in film, October 2022.
Raffles London at the OWO
As it turns out the Spies Entrance, formerly frequented by agents, is discreetly positioned at the back of the building and is now the access for the Raffles’ luxury apartments. The main hotel entry is on Whitehall itself, the road running between the Houses of Parliament and Trafalgar Square that also gives its name to the wider area.
While the Edwardian Baroque façade of this vast building is currently hidden behind hoardings, once inside the sheer scale of the place is immediately noticeable. And although the transformation into a 120 roomed luxury hotel is still in progress, what’s already apparent is the restored original features such as oak panelled walls, grand fireplaces and cornicing on the soaringly high ceilings.
From the entrance hall leads an impressive marble staircase on which successive statesman have stepped. Overhead is a balcony where Winston Churchill would address the staff, Raffles London managing director Philippe Leboeuf (who has moved from the Mandarin Oriental Group) tells us. And on the upper floors the mosaic laid corridors – some two miles of them – were once abuzz with running messenger boys.
Raffles London at the OWO
The former secretary of state’s office that at varying times belonged to Lord Kitchener, David Lloyd George, Churchill and John Profumo is being turned into a sprawling suite. The space directly overlooks Horse Guards, the historic military headquarters and home to the Household Cavalry Museum.
We’re also shown inside one of the turrets facing Whitehall complete with huge, curved glass windows which is a spectacular space for a guest room. In the middle portion of the hotel overlooking a large courtyard another suite, The Poppy, will occupy three storeys.
On completion the hotel will have a total of eleven restaurants and bars to be rolled out gradually. Three of them – a brasserie, a fine dining room and a chef’s table – will be overseen by chef Mauro Colagreco who has a three Michelin starred restaurant in France.
Raffles London at the OWO
A new addition is four subterranean floors underneath the existing building that will house a spa and health club including a swimming pool, gym, yoga studio, sauna and steam, partnering with Guerlain and Pillar.
Raffles at The OWO is due to open between this December and March 2023. The hotel will also be open several days a year for tours, making the building and its fascinating history accessible to the public (as well as guests) for the first time.
Netflix’s new production of Persuasion which includes Crazy Rich Asians’ Henry Golding in its ensemble cast, has had Jane Austen purists reaching for the smelling salts. Austen’s final completed novel follows the travails of heartbroken heroine Anne Elliot (Dakota Johnson) who had previously been “persuaded” to reject the marriage proposal of Captain Frederick Wentworth as he had no status or fortune.
When Wentworth re appears several years later Anne is also been wooed by the charming and handsome William Elliot (Henry Golding) who as her distant cousin is heir to her family home, Kellynch Hall in Somerset, south west England. Netflix’s version has been criticised for gauchely including modern day language and breaking the fourth wall with knowing quips direct to the camera à la Fleabag.
But although the adaptation has sparked controversy over its inauthenticity, what Netflix has stayed true to is the locations. Austen’s novel was partly set in the south west England settings of Lyme Regis in Dorset and Bath in Somerset – one of the rare instances the author referenced real life places in her fiction. And both were used as filming locations for the Netflix production.
The streaming company has found that the settings of its dramas are a key part of their appeal to viewers. In a press release last month a spokesperson announced that the location of a Netflix series or film frequently becomes the destination that viewers most want to visit. The release goes on to say that viewers also have an increased interest in the well known landmarks, history and food and drink of said locations as a result and “Now we want to find new ways to connect members to the stories, and the places, that they love.”
So Netflix recently partnered with SANDEMANs New Europe Tours for a series of free guided walking tours of Paris, Madrid and London that not only shared the history of the cities but highlighted locations from Netflix shows such as Emily in Paris and Bridgerton and revealed behind the scenes insights.
Time will tell if the tours will be extended and if Persuasion will be added to the roster. In the meantime, a number of locations in the production are open to the public. Kellynch Hall, which Anne’s vain and feckless father Sir Walter (Richard E Grant) has to rent to Admiral Croft in order to make money, is alas a private house (Trafalgar Park in Wiltshire). But here are the locations you can visit.
Jane Austen was apparently a fan of “Lyme”, a picturesque and historic seaside town on the south coast of England, and its surrounding countryside. The author stayed there at least twice with her family – as her letters record – and included the location in Persuasion.
In the novel she wrote “ the remarkable situation of the town, the principal street almost hurrying into the water, the walk to the Cobb, skirting round the pleasant little bay, which, in the season, is animated with bathing machines and company; the Cobb itself, its old wonders and new improvements, with the very beautiful line of cliffs stretching out to the east of the town, are what the stranger’s eye will seek; and a very strange stranger it must be, who does not see charms in the immediate environs of Lyme, to make him wish to know it better.”
The town features in several key scenes including where Anne first encounters William. Lyme Cobb – a distinctive harbour wall built to protect the town – is also central. Notably when the party are out for a stroll and Anne’s friend Louisa Musgrove falls. The exact location is thought to be the precarious “granny’s teeth” stone steps that link the upper and low levels of the Cobb.
Lyme Regis has several sand and pebble beaches and cliff top walks which also feature in the film. The scenic South West Coast Path National Trail passes through the town and takes in the Golden Cap, the highest point on the south coast with stunning views over Lyme Bay.
The area is also known for its dramatic Jurassic Coastline – one of the most important sites in the world for fossil hunters.
Lyme Regis Museum, built on the site of 19th century fossil collector and paleontologist Mary Anning’s home, also includes several Austen artifacts loaned by the author’s descendants.
Austen is said to have stayed on Broad Street and a plaque on Pyne House there reads “This is the most likely lodging of Jane Austen”. No doubt it will now become an Instagram hotspot for Netflix Persuasion fans despite the brutal reviews.
Chenies Manor, Buckinghamshire
For the Musgrove family’s Uppercross estate two locations were used. The scenes for “the great house” were filmed at Brympton House, Somerset which is only accessible via private hire. The interiors of Uppercross Cottage – home to Anne’s sister Mary and her husband, Charles Musgrove – were filmed at the sprawling tudor manor house, Chenies, in Rickmansworth.
Guided tours detailing the house’s colourful history – described by architectural historian Nikolaus Pevsner as “a fascinating puzzle” – are available, bookable in advance. And the pretty gardens play host to plant and flower festivals in the summer months.
This beautiful Palladian style house stands in for the grand residence of Lady Dalrymple and her daughter – relations of the Elliots. The bucolic parkland was also the filming location for Uppercross’s woods and meadows – setting for Anne and her friends’ frequent walks.
The house was commissioned in the 18th century by Sir Francis Dashwood, founder of the Hell Fire Club. Not the high school Dungeons and Dragons group from Stranger Things Season Four but the louche club for upper class rakes otherwise known as the Order of the Friars of St. Francis of Wycombe.
The house is open to the public from June to August and the grounds from April to August.
Standing in for Bath’s assembly rooms is this Georgian country estate on the far reaches of West London (you can reach it on the Picadilly tube line en route to Heathrow). The house was originally built in the 1570s but transformed in the 1760s and is preserved as it would have been in the 1780s. Its Entrance Hall and Long Gallery (above) is the setting for Bath society gatherings in the Netflix production. Check before visiting as the property is closed for filming (rumoured to be Bridgerton season three) on some dates this summer.
The city renowned for its honey stone Georgian architecture and highly fashionable during Austen’s time makes several appearances in the film. The striking façade of Royal Crescent features in a scene of Anne and Lady Russell (Nikki Amuka-Bird) walking together in intense discussion. The two were also filmed on the colonnaded Bath Street (above) – the high street store windows propped with Regency finery and renamed Madame LeFroy Haberdasher and Milliner. Bath Street is also where you’ll find the entrance to the Thermae Spa – a modern incarnation of the ancient hot springs that drew visitor’s to the town in Austen’s day.
Gravel Walk, a footpath which links Royal Crescent with Queen’s Square, appears both in the book and the film location as the backdrop for – without giving anything away – the most important scene of all.
Villa Rocabella from Downton Abbey A New Era is available to rent through Homanie
“I’ve come into possession of a villa in the South of France,” announces the Dowager Countess of Grantham in the upcoming Downton Abbey film. And you can too – complete with a butler and other staff – at least for a few nights or several weeks. The Côte d’Azur villa featured in the movie is just one of the exclusive private homes available to rent through Homanie, a new breed of luxury holiday leases providing equally luxurious hotel level service.
Launched in March 2021, the company’s remit is dream homes with incredible views in exceptional locations with some fifty properties across France, Italy, Spain and Portugal. Added to this Homanie offers “five star service by The Homanists – women and men who are selected for their expertise.” Think chefs, housekeepers, gym trainers and yoga instructors. The whole package is yours from an average of 50 to 60 000€ (around US$53,000 to US$63,000) a week in summer, depending on the property, with some reaching 180 000E (about US$190,000) a week.
Luxury holiday rentals already exist of course but there’s a growing trend for combining the privacy and space of a unique holiday lease with the service and amenities of a deluxe hotel. “Up until now, renting a property has been synonymous with ‘self catering’ – a quick handover of the keys and service which is often cursory. Homanie is now changing all of this by offering an innovative, five star hotel service,” says a spokeswoman for the company.
Mandarin Oriental Exclusive Homes – Ca’n Miquelet villa
Similarly from this summer fans of Mandarin Oriental will have the chance to experience the hotel brand in a new way. In a collaboration with StayOne, specialists in “the finest one per cent of holiday homes”, the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group has launched a collection of exclusive private houses to rent. Each of which comes with “service provided by a team who have been meticulously trained by Mandarin Oriental”.
Mandarin Oriental Exclusive Homes – from a Spanish private island to an English country estate – include a 24 hour concierge service, in house private chef and daily housekeeping, right down to MO robes and bathroom amenities.
“The luxury home rental market is a fast-growing segment of leisure travel,” says Luca Finardi, Area Vice President & Head of Operations at Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group which became a minority investor in StayOne in late 2020. “We saw the opportunity to introduce luxury experiences that combine the best of both brands. StayOne have the perfect homes, and Mandarin Oriental has the brand reputation to deliver unique personalised service in a luxury environment.”
Mandarin Oriental Exclusive Homes – Cirencester Estate
The inaugural selection of eight properties are based in the South of France, the Balearic islands Ibiza and Mallorca and the Cotswolds in England. “Destinations were selected based on customer demand among our Fan base in the most popular leisure destinations,” says Finardi. “Looking forward, Mandarin Oriental and StayOne will collaborate to identify seasonal collections; diversifying the portfolio and handpicking villas in other key destinations around the world.”
Other hotel brands also have affinities with luxury rentals around the world including North America and Asia. Marriott International launched Homes & Villas in 2019 and prior to that Accor hotel group bought upscale holiday rental company onefinestay.
“While no formal crossover programming or services exist between Accor hotel brands and onefinestay, we are capable of addressing needs or requests our guests or clients may have. This could take the shape of a hotel chef preparing a bespoke, private dinner at a onefinestay property,” says Garth Simmons, CEO Accor Southeast Asia, Japan & South Korea.
Mandarin Oriental Exclusive Homes – Tagomago villa
Members of the Fans of MO loyalty scheme will be offered further benefits and experiences while staying at the Exclusive Homes. And both Accor and Marriott allow guests to earn and redeem reward points at the onefinestay and Homes & Villas properties respectively.
On a smaller scale ÀNI Private Resorts offers four private homes for rent with full service in Thailand, Sri Lanka, Anguilla and the Dominican Republic. And in London only, Domus Stay has privately owned high end apartments to exclusive townhouses on its books for short stay rentals with the opportunity to arrange guest services such as personal trainers, VIP gallery tours, private wine tastings and art classes.
Multi-generational holidays and landmark occasions are ideally suited for the larger properties. “Customers of luxury villas usually choose them for different reasons to choosing luxury hotels and we wanted to develop this for our clients,” says Finardi. “We saw an opportunity of being able to offer private, stand-alone accommodation options in destinations we have yet to have opened a hotel. Ideally for the coming together of family and friends to celebrate key events.”
Exclusive Mediterranean villa available to rent through Homanie
And companies have seen increased interest as the world opens up again. “We have noticed since the pandemic a real increase in demand for holidays in private mansions as travellers now favour more intimate places where they feel more secured against the risk of Covid,” says the Homanie spokeswoman.
Eyka Farhana and Jaa Suzuran filming Autumn in Wales in Beddgelert
From Sleepless in Seattle to Notting Hill, there’s a long tradition of romantic comedies referencing the locations they are set in in their titles. The latest is Autumn in Wales, a Malaysian film starring Eyka Farhana, Jaa Suzuran, Keith Foo and Wanna Ali and currently streaming on Astro First and Astro Go in Malaysia.
The film, directed by Rahila Ali, follows pampered Aira (Eyka Farhana) deciding to surprise her suave fiancé, Darwish (Keith Foo) by travelling from Malaysia to Wales, United Kingdom after he suddenly breaks off their engagement.
On arriving in Wales, Aira finds Darwish smitten with the sophisticated Marissa (Wanna Ali). Aira subsequently teams up with the quirky Jaka (Jaa Suzuran), working in a local café, to find out why Darwish has dumped her, seemingly falling in love with him in the process. The Philipino café owner, Mickey Bosstos, played by Amirul Haswendy who also wrote the script, adds another comic twist.
Keith Foo and Eyka Farhana, Autumn in Wales
In typical rom com style nothing runs smoothly or as Suzuran puts it, “everything goes wrong”. The plot unfolds against a backdrop of bucolic riversides, stone walled cottages, colourful seaside houses and ruined castles.
Writer Amirul Haswendy told me over email, “The idea of setting the film in Wales came from the director, Rahila Ali, who used to study in the UK and fell in love with certain parts of it especially Wales. She likes to travel and the places that we shot in Wales were some of the places she’d been to.”
Ali previously filmed two movies in Wales one of which, Aku Bukan Gila, (meaning I’m Not Crazy) was also written by Haswendy. It was set and shot in Llandudno, a seaside resort in North Wales, most recently made famous for the goats overrunning the town during the pandemic lockdown.
Wanna Ali, Autumn in Wales
For Autumn in Wales Haswendy says, “[Ali] asked me to write a rom com so we sat down and shared some ideas. We went to Wales for a recce and found so many beautiful places for the movie.”
These beautiful places include Aberaeron and Aberystwyth on the coast of Mid Wales and Beddgelert in North Wales. The latter is a picture perfect village of stone buildings with a river (in actuality the confluence of two) running through it, crossed by a double arched, stone bridge.
Much of the drama takes place in this small village in Snowdonia National Park where Jaka works as a waiter at a café, the real life Caffi Colwyn with its pretty riverside tea garden.
Cast and crew of Autumn in Wales
Legend has it that the name of the village, which means Gelert’s Grave, derives from a faithful hound, Gelert, that belonged to Prince Llewelyn the Great in the thirteenth century. There is even a “grave” for the dog which even though most probably mythical is a pretty spot, reached along a riverside path. The village also has a “Rupert Bear Garden” in honour of the cartoon ursine as the illustrator who created him, Alfred Bestall, lived here.
There are a number of guesthouses and B&Bs in the village and nearby is Llyn Gwynant campsite. Based beside a lake and a river, the campsite is at the foot of mount Snowdon (Yr Wddfa in Welsh) – you can climb the mountain, the highest in Wales, directly from there. This serene setting was a location for Tomb Raider 2, starring Angelina Jolie as Lara Croft, transformed into a Chinese village (with the help of some CGI).
It was not the first time the area was been depicted as China by the film industry. Back in 1958, The Inn of the Sixth Happiness starring Ingrid Bergman was partly filmed in the environs near Beddgelert. Bergman played the real life Gladys Aylward, a missionary and an inn keeper in Yangcheng, China. When the second world war breaks out Aylward volunteers to lead a group of a 100 orphans to safety across the mountains, helped by Chinese officer, Lin Nan.
Wanna Ali and Jaa Suzuran, Autumn in Wales
A little further south in the county of Cardigan are Aberaeron and Aberystwyth. Both are on the Wales Coast Path, a scenic 870 mile (1,400 km) walking trail running the entire coastline of Wales. This year marks the tenth anniversary of the Path, one of a few continuous walking routes along a country’s coastline in the world. For the energetic, the distance between Aberaeron and Aberystwyth is 18 miles with some of the terrain designated “moderate to hard”.
Cardigan Bay, which Aberaeron and Aberystwyth overlook, is one of only two spots in Britain that have a resident bottle nose dolphin population. The dolphins may be spotted all year round with peak viewing opportunities from June to October.
The fishing village Aberaeron is a cinematography dream of brightly coloured cottages and Regency houses based around a small harbour. It’s here that Wanni Ali says she filmed her favourite scene (no spoilers) on the harbour bridge. The largest of the houses is the Harbourmaster boutique hotel, painted a vivid blue. Inside, the interiors combine traditional coastal wainscotting with contemporary furniture and Welsh textiles and the inviting restaurant serves locally sourced food.
Up the coast the larger Aberystwyth, known locally as Aber, is a university town – glimpses of the Old College can be seen in the film. In another movie link, the town is where Taron Egerton star of Kingsman and Rocketman was brought up. The British actor’s earliest performances were at Aberystwyth Arts Centre, a thriving theatre, concert hall and gallery space which also houses cafes, bars and shops.
Eyka Farhana and Jaa Suzuran, Autumn in Wales
Aber’s sweeping promenade flanked by pastel painted Victorian town houses, many of which are now guest houses, feature in the film. During autumn and winter the spectacular sight of starling murmurations can be seen over the pier. Thousands of the birds gather at dusk, flying in a remarkable shape-shifting mass.
Close by, and also in the movie, are the ruins of Aberystwyth Castle, dating back to the thirteenth century. Originally commissioned by King Edward 1st, it switched hands between the English and Welsh many times over the centuries as war between the two raged and fell into disrepair in the early 1400s after peace was brokered.
Aberystwyth is also home to the Michelin Guides’ UK Opening of the Year 2022 – a restaurant named SY23 (the town’s post code). The Guide notes that chef Nathan Davies and his team have “created a fun, lively spot in this quaint Welsh seaside town.”
The tasting menu revolves around charcoal grill cooking and locally sourced produce that’s “foraged, farmed or fished from the sea shore to the rolling mountains”. The restaurant is based just off Great Darkgate, a shopping street where many of the Autumn in Wales scenes were filmed.
Eyka Farhana and Jaa Suzuran, Autumn in Wales
Producer Dato’ Normashayu Puteh says she hopes the movie will give viewers “respite from their daily stresses.” Puteh adds, “The enchanting cinematography showcases the beauty of Wales that is rarely captured in local Malaysian films. We believe that this film will be able to inject audiences with a sense of wanderlust and the thrill of travelling overseas during this ‘new normal’”.
Dearest Readers, As we countdown to Bridgerton season 2, here’s a look back at the filming locations from the first season that you can visit in real life…
It is a truth universally acknowledged that a Regency period drama must be shot on location in the English city of Bath. And so in opulent new Netflix series, Bridgerton (the name of a family not a place), Bath’s picturesque Georgian architecture stands in for London in 1813. All the exterior shots of “Mayfair” were actually filmed against the honey stone facades of Alfred, Bath and Great Pulteney Streets as well as Beauford Square and Royal Crescent.
Based on the popular romance novels by Julia Quinn, the television series centres around two high society families, the sophisticated Bridgertons and the gauche Featheringtons, as their daughters aim to find eligible husbands during the London Season. Described as Jane Austen meets Gossip Girl, the show is an over the top extravaganza of ultra bright colours, sumptuous costumes, steamy sex scenes and stunning locations.
As well as Bath, various historic buildings around England, many designed by England’s first starchitect Inigo Jones, were used as locations. The interiors are 50 per cent real, 50 per cent set design, Bridgerton’s production designer Will Hughes-Jones told me via email. Some of the real life locations are not open to the public, for instance *that* staircase scene with the anti-hero, Simon, the Duke of Hastings and Daphne Bridgerton was filmed is a private house on Queen Anne’s Gate, London. Below though are the locations you can visit when the lockdown is lifted.
Bath, Somerset
Bridgerton, Netflix, Royal Crescent Bath
The grand exterior of No 1 Royal Crescent, a Georgian era museum, is the Featherington’s Grosvenor Square house (the interiors are set designs). Holburne Museum of Art at the end of Great Pulteney is the exterior of the Duke’s godmother Lady Danbury’s mansion while the Bath Assembly Rooms, the scene of many real life Georgian balls, was the setting for Danbury House’s ballroom. Double bay windowed Pickled Greens café on Abbey Green is the location of Modiste couture dress maker while 12 Trim Street (in reality a hair salon) is Gunter’s Tea Shop, both featured throughout the series.
The exterior of Bridgerton House, also supposedly in Grosvenor Square, is this eye catching building in Greenwich, south east London (the interiors were shot at RAF Halton House, not open to the public). This Palladian style villa which the production team bedecked with wisteria now houses The Wernher Collection, an impressive range of artworks collected by Sir Julius Wernher in the 19thcentury.
When the debutantes including Daphne and the Featherington sisters are presented to Queen Charlotte at St James’s Palace it’s in Wilton House’s stunning Single Cube Room, so called because of its dimensions of 30 ft long by 30 ft wide and 30 ft high. And when the displeased Queen confronts her nephew Prince Friedrich of Prussia at her home, Buckingham House, it’s in the even more splendid Double Cube Room.
The house multi tasks as the exterior and interiors of the Duke’s London residence, Hastings House, too. The Cloisters features in several corridor stomping scenes and that fabulous ariel shot of “Hastings House” with is courtyard garden in the series finale of Bridgerton is Wilton.
The Queen’s House, London
Also in Greenwich, this impressive Classical building – the first of its style in the UK – stands in for Somerset House where the debutantes flock around Prince Friedrich. The house was originally built for King James 1’s bride in the early 1600s and now houses an art gallery (though not the one seen in Bridgerton which was filmed inside Somerley House, a private events venue).
The 18th century landscaped gardens in Cobham appear in the “Botanical Gardens” scenes where London society meets to picnic and promenade. The lake and both the Chinese and Five Arch bridges feature prominently – with the Netflix design additions of gazebos and a profusion of flowers.
Syon House, London
While several of the Buckingham House interiors were shot at Lancaster house (owned by the British Government and not open to the public), some were also filmed inside this 16th century house in west London. The neo classical gem also serves as the location of the Duke’s Hastings House study and dressing room. And the distinctive neo classical Great Hall is where the Duke’s belongings are packed up before he intends to leave England. Syon House’s garden courtyard inspired the set design for the London Season’s final ball.
Hatfield House, Hertfordshire
Bridgerton Netflix, Hatfield House
Lady Trowbridge’s Ball, featuring pivotal scenes for all the major Bridgerton characters, was filmed at this country house just north of London. As well as shots of the Jacobean exteriors and the ornamental East Garden, the Marble Hall with its black and white checked floor and wood carved walls features as the ballroom. The house has links with Queen Elizabeth 1 and a portrait of her circa 1600 hangs in the Marble Hall.
Castle Howard, Yorkshire
Bridgerton, Netflix at Castle Howard
Both the magnificent exterior and interiors, including the centrepiece dome, of Castle Howard were shot for the Duke’s country seat, Clyvedon Castle. The Temple of the Four Winds in the grounds is the setting for another passionate scene between Simon and Daphne. Clyvedon’s dining room was actually filmed at Wilton House though and if you’re looking for the library – setting of yet another steamy encounter – you’ll need an invite to The Reform Club in London.
This article was originally published in January 2021
“When I read it now I feel myself back again on the steamer from Assuan to Wadi Halfa,” Agatha Christie wrote of her novel Death on the Nile published in 1937. Christie was inspired by a holiday in Egypt, escaping the British winter, and observed that the resulting book “is one of the best of my ‘foreign travel’ ones… the reader can escape to sunny skies and blue water in the confines of an armchair.” Kenneth Branagh’s lavish new film version of the murder mystery will likely also have viewers vicariously visiting Egypt.
Like Agatha Christie and her Death on the Nile characters, I stayed in Aswan and travelled by boat to Abu Simbel several winters ago. And like them I checked into the Old Cataract Hotel which felt like stepping into an Agatha Christie novel. The writer not only stayed at the grand hotel, she partly set Death on the Nile there. At the “Cataract Hotel at Assuan” her fictional detective Hercule Poirot first met heiress Linnet Ridgeway on honeymoon with her husband Simon Doyle, the pair being stalked by Simon’s jilted fiancée, Jacqueline de Bellefort. Along with a cast of other intriguing guests they subsequently took an ill-fated Nile cruise on the SS Karnak.
Branagh shot most of his film at a studio in England (even recreating the Karnak steamer and Abu Simbel temple there) but the equally star studded 1978 movie included extensive shots of the Old Cataract. Though refurbished and renamed the Sofitel Legend Old Cataract Aswan, the cocoa powder coloured exteriors adorned with terraces and balconies were kept intact (there’s also now an Agatha Christie Suite).
It was easy to enjoy Aswan without leaving the hotel, dozing on a sun lounger by the pool or sitting on the cool, canopied terrace where there was a bird’s eye view of the Nile, Elephantine Island, and the desert beyond. Like Poirot however I did venture into town to visit the souk (a frenzied experience involving the world’s most persistent salesmen) and took a felucca straight from the hotel’s dock to Elephantine Island.
Following in Christie and her characters’ footsteps I boarded a boat at Aswan that would take me to the magnificent Abu Simbel temples. In Christie’s day the temple complex was on the Nile but the Aswan High Dam built across the Nile in the 1960s created Lake Nasser and the temples were moved and rebuilt on higher ground. Abu Simbel was the scene of a pivotal part of the plot in Death on the Nile, indicated by the fact that the original UK book dust jacket featured an illustration of a graceful steamer moored in front of the temple. Although the boat I travelled on was not a steamer like SS Karnak it was designed to look like one on the exterior.Andthe luggage brought up the gangway at Aswan consisted of roll on aluminium suitcases rather than vintage leather trunks.
Our trip had its share of intriguing Christie-esque characters: the eccentric couple in the presidential suite who never mixed with the rest of the passengers, the lone man who bombarded the guide with questions at every temple and tomb and the tall, pale woman permanently dressed in clothes more suited to The African Queen.
We would be taking a gentle jaunt around Lake Nasser, visiting lesser-known temples and tombs rescued from the area flooded by the creation of the High Dam and culminating in a stop at the the massive temple dedicated to Ramses II and the slightly smaller, but no less impressive, one to his wife, Nefertari.
Lake Nasser had far fewer boats than the popular stretch of the Nile between Aswan and Luxor. Admittedly, there was a lot less to see than on the river but as Christie said through the caddish Simon Doyle, “It feels, somehow, so much less touristy – as though we were really going into the heart of Egypt.”
Most visitors take a day-trip from Aswan to Abu Simbel by plane but by taking a four night cruise we were truly able to appreciate the temples. We had been told to start looking out for Abu Simbel half an hour before we were due to reach it. Once I spotted the grey hulk on the horizon I looked through binoculars to see four colossal figures hewn from a mountain of rock that marks the main temple’s entrance. I was hooked, keeping my focus on them until we disembarked to see them up close.
Staying overnight we visited the temples in both daylight and darkness, the latter including a light and sound show. And by staying aboard a boat rather than at a hotel, we were treated to dinner on deck with the floodlit temples as a back drop. Just as Christie had done in the 1930s, it felt wonderful to escape the winter weather back home.
Marvel Studio’s film sets usually have more to do with special effects than real life destinations but that’s about to change with its newest blockbuster, Eternals, streaming on Disney Plus from January 12th. “Director Chloé Zhao employs a naturalistic style of location-based filmmaking, so she wanted the filming to take place at practical locations, as much as was feasibly possible,” a Marvel Studios spokesperson said.
Eternals centres on a group of eponymously named, other worldly superheroes with a cast led by Gemma Chan (who starred in Crazy Rich Asians and whose parents are from Hong Kong) and including Richard Madden, Angelina Jolie, Salma Hayek, Kumail Nanjiani and Don Lee (Ma Dong-seok).
The story flits between the past and present covering the group’s back story and visiting each character in their now disparate homes across the world as they live among mortals. Chan’s character, Sersi, travels between the modern day locations attempting to get the gang back together in the face of a resurfacing threat from old enemy, The Deviants.
“We shot mainly on location,” the Oscar winning, Chinese born Zhao confirmed. “The visual experience of this film must feel immersive and interactive enough for audiences to believe that these characters have walked the earth for 7,000 years. It’s not possible to do that on a [sound] stage.”
And so the cast and crew headed to the Canary Islands and England. Zhao needed locations to stand in for both ancient and contemporary settings spanning from Mesopotamia, Babylon and the Gupta Empire to South Dakota, Alaska and the Amazon rainforest and felt she found them in Fuerteventura and Lanzarote in the Canaries and parts of southern England.
“It was great to be able to actually shoot on location rather than shoot on a lot of green screens or blue screens,” said Richard Madden who plays Ikaris, Sersi’s on off boyfriend of several thousand years. “We’ve got these great sequences on black sand beaches and volcanic islands. We shot in the streets of London. We shot in forests and woods. All of that really helps make this movie more grounded in reality than just if we’d purely shot it all in a studio.”
While an early scene shows Gemma Chan in Piccadilly Circus and her character works at the Natural History Museum in South Kensington, a lot of filming took place in north London between Camden High Street and Hampstead Heath.
Chan and Kit Harington (who plays Dane Whitman a Natural History Museum colleague and boyfriend of Sersi) were spotted being filmed on the Parliament Hill area of Hampstead Heath. At one point Chan was seen suspended by a crane and wires, “flying” above the Hill which is known for its view of the City of London.
A night shoot in nearby Camden involved Chan and Harington along with the latter’s former Game of Thrones co star, Madden. Scenes took place on the bridge at Camden Lock, a scruffy yet unfathomably popular tourist haunt, where Ikaris “flies” and Sersi turns a red double decker into poppies; as well as Regent’s Canal and towpath beneath.
Further scenes were shot in the Belsize Park neighbourhood that sits between Camden and Hampstead. Specifically in front of a run of shops and restaurants on Belsize Lane where Chan was filmed with Harington again as well as Kumail Nanjiani (Kingo, an Eternal turned Bollywood star) and Lia McHugh (Sprite, a 7,000 year old in a 12 year old girl’s body).
The English countryside also stood in for other locations. Salisbury Plain in Wiltshire, was the setting for Ajak’s (played by Salma Hayek) South Dakota ranch. Swinley Forest in Berkshire, substituted for Alaska while Black Park near Pinewood Studios was the setting for an Aztec pyramid.
In warmer climes, the subtropical, volcanic islands of Lanzarote and Fuerteventura were the settings for ancient Mesopotamia and Babylon as well as the present day Australian outback. Locations included the Cuervo Volcano one of the most accessible to visit volcanos on Lanzarote with an easy guided pathway around its perimeter and even inside the crater. Filming was also thought to have taken place at Charco de los Clicos, a startlingly green lagoon in a volcanic crater alongside a black sand beach, and the red hued Rodeos Mountain inside the Los Volcanes Natural Park with many walking trails.
On Fuerteventura the Penitas Gorge, a popular hiking spot through a ravine, and Buen Paso palm groves feature as well as La Solapa Beach with its distinctive rocky coastline and black sand beach and Corralejo sand dunes. Angelina Jolie was photographed with her children and Lia McHugh visiting Corralejo’s well known kite flying festival that takes places every November.
Eternals producer, Nate Moore, said, “To shoot in those locations, in those environments with real desert, with real ocean, with real volcanoes was something we don’t always get to do, and I think the film will feel richer for it.”
In Netflix’s Emily in Paris Season Two, Emily (Lily Collins) catches a train to St Tropez that looks suspiciously like the Orient Express. In reality the modern day version, the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, does not journey from to the South of France but here’s Chopstix’s experience of catching the VSOE from London to Venice via Paris:
Our first sight of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is the smartly uniformed staff lined up alongside the gleaming navy train to greet us. We are welcomed aboard by our personal steward in blue and gold livery complete with cap and white gloves who’ll take care of us for our two day trip. He leads us along the narrow corridor of our designated wagon lit (sleeping car) to our cabin where our luggage is already waiting.
VSOE
Our journey had begun that morning at London Victoria. It’s a popular misconception that the VSOE travels between the UK and mainland Europe. In reality its sister train, the equally plush and storied Belmond British Pullman, covers the English leg. After enjoying a three course lunch on board the Pullman while travelling through the countryside we disembarked at Folkestone on the south coast, met with terrific fanfare by a brass band playing on the platform. We were then transferred by coach onto another train, Le Shuttle, that passes through the Eurotunnel under the sea into France.
Safely aboard the VSOE at Calais station we settle into our cosy Art Deco cabin. We’ve booked a twin which comes with bunk beds though during the day there’s no sign of the sleeping arrangements – unlike Emily’s experience of boarding in Paris. Instead there’s a luxuriously upholstered banquette seat – perfect for taking in the view through the large window. While our cabin is lovely it’s small so we’ve brought overnight bags only (more luggage can be stored but not accessed on the journey – Emily would definitely not have brought her gigantic Rimowa collab aboard). In true authentic 1920s fashion, there’s a wash basin concealed in a smart wooden cabinet but no shower and the lavatories are at the end of each carriage.
Although often mistaken for the Orient Express, the train service synonymous with Agatha Christie that ran between Paris and Istanbul, the VSOE is a collection of vintage carriages bought by businessman James Sherwood (who launched a luxury travel group, now called Belmond, on the back of it). Each carriage has been exquisitely restored, all polished wood and richly coloured upholstery, some feature marquetry and some Lalique glass panels. Combined they make a beguiling luxury train of several sleeper cars positioned either side of the dining and bar cars.
Once we’re off an ever changing view unfolds outside the window. When we pass families out for a stroll or bike ride it’s lovely to see their faces light up at the sight of the handsome train.
VSOE
We opt for the later sitting for dinner (there are also two sittings for lunch) and request a table for two rather than a shared table of four. Beforehand we make our way to the bar car for an aperitif. It’s a bit of crush with passengers crowding in either before or after dinner but luckily we find a seat. You’re encouraged to dress up on the VSOE and evening is particularly fun with most of us in glitzy frocks and tuxedos.
Serendipitously our dinner coincides with the train crossing Paris so we’re treated to a view of an illuminated Eiffel tower from our upholstered arm chairs as we tuck into the four course set menu. The table is beautifully laid with fine china, crystal and silverware perfectly framing the lobster lasagna followed by fillet of beef, a cheese course then bitter chocolate and pistachio and souffle. We finish off with coffee and petits fours then retire to the bar for a night cap.
Back in the cabin we find our steward has transformed the banquette into inviting beds with crisp sheets and warm blankets. An upholstered ladder leads to the top bunk which I leave Mr Chopstix to clamber up. Our passports are with the steward so when we cross the border into Switzerland during the night we won’t be woken.
VSOE
In the morning we open the blinds and see the snowy mountains of the Alps. It’s a magical backdrop for breakfast in our cabin. We spend the day walking the length of the train (a half mile each way), browsing in the onboard boutique and simply watching the scenery as we pass into Austria and then Italy. Punctuated by eating of course. The three course set lunch is as impressive as dinner: seared scallops, roasted rack of lamb and a poached pear with salted caramel.
As our journey comes to a close in the late afternoon we return to our cabin. Our steward opens our door so that the window in the corridor is visible and tells us to make sure we look out of both sides. What follows will remain one of my favourite travel experiences: the train crosses the Venetian lagoon and we have an expansive view in each direction. It’s a stunning arrival in the floating city.
One caveat, back on firm ground we weren’t prepared for the rocking sensation, similar to how you feel when you’ve been on a boat. Even so as we checked in at Venice airport, how we wished we were returning on the VSOE.
[UPDATE: For the first time, the Venice Simplon Orient-Express will offer journeys during the month of December this year. The VSOE will travel the Classic Journey from Venice to Paris on 2nd and 12th December 2022, and from Paris to Venice on 20th December. The train will stop in Florence on 7th December (Venice to Paris) and 8th December (Paris to Venice). The train will depart from Paris to Vienna on 17th December, and will make the return journey (Vienna to Paris) on 18th December 2022.]
Wes Anderson aboard his reimagined Cygnus carriage
As I sit at a white clothed table, take a sip of wine from a cut glass goblet and watch the countryside roll by through the train window, I feel as if I could be in a Wes Anderson film. Not just because trains are a recurring fixture in Anderson’s productions but because the carriage I’m travelling on has been revamped by the movie director himself.
Paris-based Anderson dislikes flying and is a regular on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express so Belmond asked him to redesign a carriage on sister train, the British Pullman, which every year takes one of its vintage carriages out of service for a refresh, a spokeswoman for the luxury travel company tells me.
The British Pullman loops through the English countryside
From the exterior, Cygnus (all the carriages have names rather than letters) looks the same as the rest of the coffee and cream coloured train waiting at London’s Victoria station. I had been greeted aboard that morning by a friendly, white-gloved steward and shown to my upholstered seat where canapes were waiting on the table and a flute of champagne swiftly poured.
“Are you a fan of Wes Anderson?” the steward asks. I reply that I am. But I am also an Agatha Christie and art deco fan and having been on the train a few times, including this very carriage, I’m curious to see the changes.
The walnut walls and overhead brass luggage racks have been kept intact to which Anderson has added his own touches. He’s brought in angular seating in place of the oversized upholstered armchairs; replaced the traditional, shaded lights with sleek art deco style lamps and the furnishings now all feature geometric prints.
Wes Anderson reimagined carriage with pink ceiling
What catches my eye the most though is the ceiling painted a divine pink. This sugary shade is one of the director’s signatures and it occurs to me that the green and pink colour scheme of the carriage is the same as showstopper pastry from Mendl’s bakery in The Grand Budapest Hotel as well as the main character’s costumes in Moonrise Kingdom.
Since cygnus means swan, Anderson has played on the waterfowl theme from the marquetry on the walls to the shape of the champagne coolers in the private coupes – like all the British Pullman carriages Cygnus has two private compartments, seating up to four people, at either end.
Tiny swan in the marquetry Cygnus private compartment
Unlike the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, the British Pullman has no sleeper cars, it is entirely made up of restaurant carriages and so offers day trips from London to various destinations in England and Wales. The inaugural journey for the revamped Cygnus was fittingly to the Welsh capital, Cardiff – Anderson’s middle name is Wales. Upcoming trips next year include Bath, Oxford and Blenheim Palace. I have chosen The Golden Age of Travel which involves a five course lunch onboard while looping through the Kent countryside.
From the tiny kitchen the chef and his team create impressive dishes including duck terrine, roast pumpkin soup, wild sea bass and pineapple upside down cake. The menu is served at a leisurely pace and perfectly timed to be spread out throughout the five hour journey. And all the staff are unfailingly personable and attentive.
Anderson has chosen the tableware for Cygnus, a modern bone china by Royal College of Art graduate, William Edwards who also works with hotels including the Four Seasons, Fairmont and Intercontinental. And the pattern itself – continuing the carriage’s green theme – was designed in collaboration with the owner of Cobblers Cove, Barbados.
Wes Anderson chose the William Edwards china
Like the VSOE, the Pullman is made up of salvaged vintage carriages from the 1920s and 30s. Cygnus was built as a “first class parlour” that was frequented by heads of state. During a break between the main course and cheese, I take a walk through to see some of the other cars. There’s Audrey where the marquetry depicts landscape scenes and Lucille where the inlays feature Greek urns. All the cars are filled with the sound of chatter and laughter. Belmond encourages passengers to dress up and most have which adds to the merriment.
Back in my seat the view turns to farmland with a smattering of oast houses with their distinctive cone shaped roofs that were traditionally used to dry hops. Further on, a glimpse of the sea and the beach huts at Whitstable signal that the train is looping back towards London.
We’re on coffee and chocolate truffles as we edge towards the capital. One last party comes to take a look at “the Wes Anderson carriage”. A train manager catches my eye as we hear the latest proclamations of “Oh wow!” With a smile he says: “Everyone is very jealous of you travelling in this carriage.”
[UDPATE: The Peninsula Hong Kong is partnering with the Secret Theatre for The Great Gatsby Immersive Dining Experience at its Felix restaurant. Guests will be transported back to 1920s New York with a theatrical performance directed by Richard Crawford and an imaginative four-course dinner inspired by New York’s Roaring Twenties, crafted by Felix’s Chef de Cuisine Juan Gomez. From 21 October to 27 November 2021, every Thursday to Saturday only at 7pm. Bookings: https://gifts.peninsula.com/hongkong/events/all
And Sight Lines Entertainment is offering the chance to win a one night stay in a suite at Shangri-la Singapore, complimentary passes to play its new Murder at Old Changi Hospital, a virtual escape room murder mystery, and a sumptuous breakfast for two. To enter follow two simple steps: 1. Follow both @wahbananasg and @sightlinesco 2. Share the post in your IGS and tag a friend and @wahbananasg so they can find your post
The giveaway ends Sunday 10 October 2021, 2359hrs Singapore time]
Raffles Hotel Singapore
Last night I went to Raffles again. I didn’t dream it, and thanks to the delayed Hong Kong – Singapore Travel Bubble I wasn’t actually there either, instead, I watched an interactive play set and filmed at the hotel by Singaporean theatre companies, Double Confirm Productions and Sight Lines Entertainment.
The Curious Case of the Missing Peranakan Treasure, conceived, directed by and featuring Hossan Leong of Double Confirm and written by Jean Tay, was filmed entirely on location at Raffles with 360 degree virtual reality cameras. So I was able to virtually enter the familiar white façade, “check in” in the lobby and revisit the hotel’s bars, suites and courtyards while watching a mystery enfold through a cast of front of house staff and guest characters.
Leong who has previously filmed one man performances at the Grand Hyatt and W hotels in Singapore says: “From 2020 there was not a lot of work for us in the arts so I decided not to sit around but to create something for actors and crew. I have always wanted to create a production with the beautiful Raffles as a backdrop and they were very supportive of my idea of having a ‘whodunnit’ set in the hotel.“
Hossan Leong (right) with Pavan J Singh on set at Raffles Singapore
Up until June 30th [2021] you can watch this entertaining tale online and attempt to solve the mystery yourself – there’s the prize of a real life stay at Raffles in the offing. Those lucky enough to be in Singapore can book a Daycation or Staycation package, watching the play on a tablet in their suite and then explore the hotel for clues (as well as being treated to Singapore Slings and satays). Alternatively, Virtual Play allows guests to buy a ticket from ticket agency SISTIC and watch from anywhere in the world.
“Raffles Singapore always had a connection with literary luminaries in our storied heritage with playwrights and authors being very much a part of who we are,” says managing director Christian Westbeld. Suites named after the likes of Noel Coward and Somerset Maugham attest to this and the former suite appears in the production. The hotel did have its own theatre, Jubilee Hall which opened in 1991, although this was transformed into a ballroom in the most recent refurbishment. Westbeld adds: “The virtual interactive play arose out of a business need to pivot, given the current pandemic.”
Also in Singapore at Hotel Soloha in Chinatown surreal comedy meets murder mystery, The Bride Always Knocks Twice, was also born out of a need to adapt in the current climate. “Arts and tourism were some of the key industries impacted by the pandemic and this project really shows how creativity and cross-industry collaboration can lead to new possibilities,” says Kuo Jian Hong, artistic director of The Theatre Practice, behind the production which streamed in the first week of June.
The Theatre Practice’s Bride Always Knocks Twice
The fourth floor of the hotel, set in a converted row of shophouses, stood in as the mysterious house in The Bride Always Knocks Twice where seven women from different eras of Singaporean history co exist. Reflective of the Lion City the women variously spoke Mandarin, Indonesian, English, Cantonese and Malay with the multimedia platform allowing for sub titles in Chinese and English.
Split over several nights, viewers watched the first act of the play then had the chance to interrogate the characters by submitting online questions which they answered live to camera. Originally it was intended that the audiences visit the hotel to hunt for clues in act three though due to the heightened measures this had to be changed into a virtual crime-scene investigation. In the final act the murderer was revealed but not before viewers had an opportunity to submit their theories with a chance to win a stay at Hotel Soloha.
Hotel Soloha
One of the first and still existing theatre and hotel synergies was The Savoy in London. The Savoy theatre actually opened before the legendary hotel which it sits adjacent to. Impressario Richard D’Oyly Carte opened the then state of the art venue in 1881 to stage the works of Gilbert and Sullivan. With the success of the comic operas he segued into hotels eight years later. Famous theatrical actors of the day flocked to stay at The Savoy including Sarah Bernhardt and Lillie Langtry.
While the venue is now owned by The Ambassador Theatre Group which operates several playhouses in London’s West End, there are regularly accommodation or F&B packages in conjunction with the hotel. A themed afternoon tea is currently being planned in homage to the just opened Pretty Woman The Musical, and starring actors often stay at the hotel.
Grand Hotel Timeo in Sicily also has a theatre adjacent, there’s even a secret entrance from the hotel into Teatro Antico. The well preserved amphitheatre was built by the Greeks in the third century for dramatic and musical performances, adapted by the Romans for gladiator games and now once again is used to stage the performing arts.
La Scala, Milan
Other hotels are embracing opera and ballet as part of their guest offerings. In St Petersburg, Grand Hotel Europe patrons have access to the hotel’s private box at the Mikhailovsky Theatre. And in Milan, Hotel Principe di Savoia will arrange private guided tours of La Scala including behind the scenes access to backstage areas.
Before the pandemic Shangri La The Shard in London held Theatre in the Clouds, partnering with private theatre concept Revels in Hand to stage three actor plays for a small number of guests in one of its suites. Whether this returns remains to be seen but other hotel projects look to continue whatever twist happens next for the arts and hospitality industries.
“We believe that arts and hospitality is the perfect marriage and with technology, we are able to not only entertain in-house guests but have international reach,” says Derrick Chew, artistic director of Sight Lines who adds the company is looking to collaborate with more hotels following its successful collaboration with Raffles. And Kuo does not rule out The Theatre Practice staging another hotel play saying: “Our works have never been constrained by genre or format, much less specific locations so never say never.”
[UPDATE: Odette has retained its position as The Best Restaurant in Asia as number 8 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list 2021. ]
Julien Royer, formerly head chef of the acclaimed Jaan, now has his own restaurant in the form of Odette, a bread roll’s throw away from his alma mater, within Singapore’s stunning new National Gallery. Odette is named in homage to Royer’s grandmother. And the family theme continues as the dreamy design is down to artist Dawn Ng – wife of the restaurant’s co owner, Wee Teng Wen of the Lo and Behold group – in conjunction with Universal Design Studio.
With its romantic, cream interiors, Odette is the White Swan to Lo and Behold stablemate, Black Swan nearby in the CBD. But back to the food. Royer is continuing to mix classical French with modern techniques in his new home. Some of his greatest hits from Jaan are on the menu: Mushroom “tea”; 55 mins Onsen Egg; Heirloom Beetroot Variation; and Hay Smoked Pigeon.
In it’s new incarnation though the Pigeon is served two ways: the breast cooked sous vide then grilled and the leg cooked for six hours. And the Onsen Eggs are smoked on a bed of pines – foraged by the chef’s father and sent over from France (another family link).
Julien Royer of Odette, Asia’s Best Restaurant 2019
Royer has also added some new creations such as the standouts Hokkaido Uni with Apple, Mussel and Caviar and Trout with Miso Glazed Kurobuta Pork. The welcome champagne trolley includes Chartogne-Taillet rose, Henri Giraud for Odette and Krug – said to be Royer’s favourite.
Desserts, by pastry chef Nicolas Vergnole, are also impressive including Confit Victoria Pineapple (below): toasted coconut ice cream, banana cake, passionfruit coulis, tapioca and Kaffir lime.
Chopstix booked a three night stay at The Carlyle to celebrate a special occasion and the whole experience was superb. The hotel embodies wonderful Upper East Side New York glamour, just as we’d envisaged. A discreet entrance just off Madison Avenue leads to the small, elegant lobby decorated in Art Deco monochrome with splashes of golden velvet. While the hotel is exclusive we found the service friendly and attentive throughout. And everyone seems to be greeted with “nice to see you” whether it’s your first or hundredth visit.
Opened as a residential hotel (The Carlyle still includes apartments) in the 1920s it went on to become a favourite with presidents, royalty and celebrities. JFK infamously met with Marilyn Monroe here, allegedly smuggling the film star in via the kitchens; it was reputedly Princess Diana’s favourite hotel in New York , William and Kate stayed in the Royal Suite on their visit to the city and it’s where VIPs get ready for the Met Ball fashion extravaganza.
The Carlyle is being subtly refurbished by Tony Chi (the designer behind Rosewood hotel group owner, Henry Cheng’s Hong Kong home) in parts but cleverly all the classic features that make it special are still there including the famous Bemelmans Bar (where Harry and Meghan were spotted this week) and the elevator attendants. Our room was one of the recently refurbished ones and successfully blended classic with contemporary. There were some lovely touches such as Central Park murals and quirky rabbit objects reminiscent of the Bemelmans bar downstairs. The room wasn’t huge and the bathroom a bit tight but that’s usual for New York and the beautiful décor made up for it.
Bemelmans Bar at The Carlyle, New York
We enjoyed fabulous breakfasts every morning in the chic Carlyle Restaurant. And dinner there was the icing on the cake of our stay. We were given the type of table we’d requested beforehand (a corner banquette) and the classic menu and slick service matched the stylish setting perfectly.
For exploring the Upper East Side the hotel’s location was also superb. We had the Met museums and Central Park right on our doorstep and of course the shops of Madison Ave. There are newer, trendier hotels in more fashionable parts of New York but for sheer class this is hard to beat.
The Carlyle currently has a Fall Limited Time Offer – book a reservation before September 30th 2021 and receive up to 30% off the best available rate – excluding the Presidential Suite.
Soho House has a range of scented candles evoking its clubhouses around the world and taking you through the day. Rose Water is "an ode to the English rose" at Babington House's walled garden.
Luxury hotels are collaborating with fashion designers on clothing ranges from one off limited editions to ongoing capsule collections or even creating their own brands.
Aman Resorts
Exclusive hotel brand Aman has launched a fashion collection inspired by its philosophy of creating sanctuaries in stunning locations and connecting guests to the spirit of a place.
The Essentials by Aman, designed and made in Italy, comprises of active, swim, lounge, resort and knit wear plus accessories for men and women. The clean lines and subtle prints (the embodiment of stealth wealth/quiet luxury) are inspired by Aman destinations while the colour palette is also drawn from Aman’s locations. Think warm terracotta for Amanjena, Marrakech; sea blue and deep green for the azure seas and olive groves of Amanzoe, Greece; and warm yellow for the desert landscapes of Amangiri, USA.
The Essentials by Aman
“Creating The Essentials has allowed us to work with some exceptional artisans to select the very best materials,” says Kristina Romanova, director fo product development at Aman. “We hope our guests will see the expression of the Aman brand in each and every piece.”
The collection is exclusively available at Aman boutiques with the range slated to expand with the addition of leather accessories and fine jewellery this autumn.
Eden Rock-St Barths
Virgil Abloh’s Off-White x Eden Rock-St Barths
One of the world’s coolest clothing brands has collaborated with one of the most iconic hotels in Virgil Abloh’s Off-White x Eden Rock-St Barths. “Off-White are huge fans of the island and there was a mutual desire to introduce a unique collection for those staying at Eden Rock – St Barths,” says a spokesperson for the hotel.
The capsule collection features nine products for men and women and only 30 pieces are made of each. The island’s beach atmosphere is the inspiration for the range with fabrics such as raffia and linen and a colour palette of beige and blues. The label is only available at the Eden Being boutique at Eden Rock.
W Hotels
“Fashion is a fundamental part of W Hotels’ DNA,” says Jacob de Boer Dorrego, director of brand management for W Hotels. “Whenever possible, our hotels continue to support local designers and also sustainable practices.”
Currently W Suzhou is partnering with fashion label Juma on a capsule collection of jumpsuits and separates which uses fabrics made from the hotel’s recycled water bottles and is available for sale at the hotel’s store. And W Maldives is collaborating with Hong Kong menswear label Mazu Resortwear to create two exclusive swim shorts with each pair made out of 12 salvaged plastic bottles.
Le Sirenuse
Emporia Sirens
The exclusive Positano hotel has its own eponymous clothing line, rebranding as Emporio Sirenuse this year, designed by Carla Sersale (who runs Le Sirenuse with her husband) and her niece Viola Parrocchetti. The idea behind the resort brand is to pay homage to the artists and writers who’ve been drawn to the Amalfi Coast since the 19th century. As Viola says, “There’s more depth to the setting than the Vespa and a basket of lemons”. Instead classical cultures and romantic visions are depicted in the prints and embroideries of the sophisticated men’s and women’s wear.
Three collections – resort, spring/summer and high summer – are designed a year and is sold in the boutique at Le Sirenuse Hotel as well as online and at high end retailers worldwide.
One & Only
Jay Ahr’s bespoke Louis Vuitton designs for One & Only
One & Only Heritage by Jay Ahr is a limited edition collection of bespoke, vintage Louis Vuitton travel bags. Jay Ahr designer Jonathan Riss mastered the art of embroidery in Mumbai and specialises in customising pre owned, exclusive designer bags. His approach of incorporating local inspiration in the designs seems a perfect fit for a hotel company with worldwide locations.
Riss embroiders each LV Keepall duffle bag with motifs inspired by the particular location and culture of each of the group’s ten resorts. Just two bags are designed for each hotel and as such they are only available for purchase from One & Only.
Mandarin Oriental
Orlebar Brown for Mandarin Oriental
Orlebar Brown, known for its tailored swim shorts, is no stranger to collaborations most recently for the Mandarin Oriental. The London label has designed versions of its mid length Bulldog style for the MO featuring striking photography of the Mandarin Orientals outdoor, coastal pool sides in Dubai, Miami, Canouan, Bodrum, Sanya and Lake Como. An additional style features the hotel group’s famous Fan logo in a geometric jacquard design and is available from the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok.
Cheval Blanc Randheli
Deluxe resort wear designer Nadine Arton has an on-going collaboration with Cheval Blanc Randheli in the Maldives.
The designer specialises in glamorous kaftans and floaty dresses which are perfect for wafting around the exclusive LVMH owned island resort. Arton creates exclusive pieces for the hotel three to four times a year which are available at the resort’s chic Concept Store. The boutique also carries LVMH labels such as Fendi sunglasses and Hublot watches.
Last night I went to Raffles again. I didn’t dream it, and thanks to the delayed Hong Kong – Singapore Travel Bubble I wasn’t actually there either, instead, I watched an interactive play set and filmed at the hotel by Singaporean theatre companies, Double Confirm Productions and Sight Lines Entertainment.
The Curious Case of the Missing Peranakan Treasure, conceived, directed by and featuring Hossan Leong of Double Confirm and written by Jean Tay, was filmed entirely on location at Raffles with 360 degree virtual reality cameras. So I was able to virtually enter the familiar white façade, “check in” in the lobby and revisit the hotel’s bars, suites and courtyards while watching a mystery enfold through a cast of front of house staff and guest characters.
Leong who has previously filmed one man performances at the Grand Hyatt and W hotels in Singapore says: “From 2020 there was not a lot of work for us in the arts so I decided not to sit around but to create something for actors and crew. I have always wanted to create a production with the beautiful Raffles as a backdrop and they were very supportive of my idea of having a ‘whodunnit’ set in the hotel.“
Hossan Leong (right) with Pavan J Singh on set at Raffles Singapore
Up until June 30th you can watch this entertaining tale online and attempt to solve the mystery yourself – there’s the prize of a real life stay at Raffles in the offing. Those lucky enough to be in Singapore can book a Daycation or Staycation package, watching the play on a tablet in their suite and then explore the hotel for clues (as well as being treated to Singapore Slings and satays). Alternatively, Virtual Play allows guests to buy a ticket from ticket agency SISTIC and watch from anywhere in the world.
“Raffles Singapore always had a connection with literary luminaries in our storied heritage with playwrights and authors being very much a part of who we are,” says managing director Christian Westbeld. Suites named after the likes of Noel Coward and Somerset Maugham attest to this and the former suite appears in the production. The hotel did have its own theatre, Jubilee Hall which opened in 1991, although this was transformed into a ballroom in the most recent refurbishment. Westbeld adds: “The virtual interactive play arose out of a business need to pivot, given the current pandemic.”
Also in Singapore at Hotel Soloha in Chinatown surreal comedy meets murder mystery, The Bride Always Knocks Twice, was also born out of a need to adapt in the current climate. “Arts and tourism were some of the key industries impacted by the pandemic and this project really shows how creativity and cross-industry collaboration can lead to new possibilities,” says Kuo Jian Hong, artistic director of The Theatre Practice, behind the production which streamed in the first week of June.
The Theatre Practice’s Bride Always Knocks Twice
The fourth floor of the hotel, set in a converted row of shophouses, stood in as the mysterious house in The Bride Always Knocks Twice where seven women from different eras of Singaporean history co exist. Reflective of the Lion City the women variously spoke Mandarin, Indonesian, English, Cantonese and Malay with the multimedia platform allowing for sub titles in Chinese and English.
Split over several nights, viewers watched the first act of the play then had the chance to interrogate the characters by submitting online questions which they answered live to camera. Originally it was intended that the audiences visit the hotel to hunt for clues in act three though due to the heightened measures this had to be changed into a virtual crime-scene investigation. In the final act the murderer was revealed but not before viewers had an opportunity to submit their theories with a chance to win a stay at Hotel Soloha.
Hotel Soloha
One of the first and still existing theatre and hotel synergies was The Savoy in London. The Savoy theatre actually opened before the legendary hotel which it sits adjacent to. Impressario Richard D’Oyly Carte opened the then state of the art venue in 1881 to stage the works of Gilbert and Sullivan. With the success of the comic operas he segued into hotels eight years later. Famous theatrical actors of the day flocked to stay at The Savoy including Sarah Bernhardt and Lillie Langtry.
While the venue is now owned by The Ambassador Theatre Group which operates several playhouses in London’s West End, there are regularly accommodation or F&B packages in conjunction with the hotel. A themed afternoon tea is currently being planned in homage to the just opened Pretty Woman The Musical, and starring actors often stay at the hotel.
Grand Hotel Timeo in Sicily also has a theatre adjacent, there’s even a secret entrance from the hotel into Teatro Antico. The well preserved amphitheatre was built by the Greeks in the third century for dramatic and musical performances, adapted by the Romans for gladiator games and now once again is used to stage the performing arts.
La Scala, Milan
Other hotels are embracing opera and ballet as part of their guest offerings. In St Petersburg, Grand Hotel Europe patrons have access to the hotel’s private box at the Mikhailovsky Theatre. And in Milan, Hotel Principe di Savoia will arrange private guided tours of La Scala including behind the scenes access to backstage areas.
Before the pandemic Shangri La The Shard in London held Theatre in the Clouds, partnering with private theatre concept Revels in Hand to stage three actor plays for a small number of guests in one of its suites. Whether this returns remains to be seen but other hotel projects look to continue whatever twist happens next for the arts and hospitality industries.
“We believe that arts and hospitality is the perfect marriage and with technology, we are able to not only entertain in-house guests but have international reach,” says Derrick Chew, artistic director of Sight Lines who adds the company is looking to collaborate with more hotels following its successful collaboration with Raffles. And Kuo does not rule out The Theatre Practice staging another hotel play saying: “Our works have never been constrained by genre or format, much less specific locations so never say never.”
Catherine’s wedding band just seen beneath her engagement ring
On the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge’s tenth wedding anniversary on April 29th we look back at why the British royals wear Welsh gold wedding bands.
While celebrities tend to choose wedding bands adorned with diamonds to match the bling of their engagement rings, British royalty including the Duchess of Cambridge and the Duchess of Sussex opt for something more understated. For nearly 100 years Britain’s senior royals have worn plain yellow gold wedding rings and this regal metal has derived from Wales – the rarest, most expensive in the world with Welsh gold bullion worth up to five times the spot price.
The custom started with the Queen Mother in 1923 when a nugget of pure gold from the Clogau St David’s mine in North Wales was gifted to the royal family, a piece of which was used to make the then Lady Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon’s wedding ring for her marriage to the future King George V1. That same nugget was used to craft wedding bands for Queen Elizabeth, Princess Margaret, Princess Anne and Princess Diana.
Handily in the 1980s the Queen was gifted more gold from Wales. 36kg was presented by the Royal British Legion part of which was used to make Sarah, Duchess of York and, it’s thought, Sophie, Countess of Wessex’s wedding rings. And 1kg was gifted from Gwynfynydd mine in celebration of the Queen’s 60thbirthday. This is likely the source of Catherine and Meghan’s wedding rings.
Ahead of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge’s nuptials St James’s Palace made the statement; “The wedding ring that Catherine Middleton will wear will be made of Welsh gold. The gold was given to Prince William by The Queen shortly after the couple were engaged. It has been in the family’s possession for some years and has been in the care of the Royal Jewellers. There are no further details on which mine the gold was mined from.”
Sitting half hidden by her huge sapphire engagement ring, Catherine’s slim yellow gold wedding band was made by royal warrant holders Wartski. Fittingly the jeweller was founded in North Wales and has a store in St James’s, just around the corner from Prince William’s London home at the time.
Similarly at the time of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge’s marriage Kensington Palace made the statement; “Ms Markle’s ring has been fashioned from a piece of Welsh gold, gifted by Her Majesty The Queen.” The band was made by Cleave and Company which also holds royal warrants and is the jeweller Prince Harry chose to create his now wife’s engagement ring. A spokesperson for Cleave says they were asked to produce “a classic 18 ct gold wedding band” for the Duchess. The ring appears to be daintily slim, in keeping with Meghan’s apparent fondness for delicate jewellery.
Gold hasn’t been extracted in Wales since 1998 however Alba Mineral Resources who took over Clogau in 2018 plans to reopen the mine and has also submitted an application for exploratory digs on nearby land in Snowdonia. So there could be a new Welsh Gold Rush on the way which would ensure the royals’ wedding ring tradition continuing for some years yet.
Vicky Lau, Veuve Clicquot Asia’s Best Female Chef 2015
[UPDATE: Vicky Lau has become the first female chef in Asia to gain two Michelin stars with the announcement of the Michelin Guide Hong Kong and Macau 2021. Here’s a look back at when Chopstix interviewed Lau in 2015.]
Asia’s Best Female Chef 2015 is Vicky Lau of Tate Dining Room, Hong Kong. Lau becomes the third winner of the award and will be officially presented with it at the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants ceremony at the Capella Hotel in Singapore on March 9th.
“The aim is to promote and celebrate female talent in an industry that remains very male dominated,” says William Drew, spokesman for the award, sponsored by Veuve Clicquot – a drinks brand associated with a strong, woman boss. “We would love to reach a position where this award becomes unnecessary but I think we are some way off that situation yet, unfortunately.”
“I do think it’s necessary to recognize female talents in the culinary industry which has traditionally been dominated by males,” Lau agrees. “There are only a few female chefs behind Hong Kong kitchens. This could be due to the fact that chefs aren’t valued for their craft or it could be because women are discouraged to pursue this career because of the physical conditions of working in a professional kitchen.”
“BONITO” – marinated katsuo / bonito dashi geleé / daikon roll / datterino tomato confit by Vicky Lau at Tate Dining Room, Hong Kong
The under representation of female chefs can be seen worldwide. Ten years ago when I joined the launch team of a food magazine in the UK, I was approached by a bright young woman who had trained with Jamie Oliver for the original brigade of his Fifteen restaurant in London. She wanted to write a feature on why there were so few female chefs.
My editor, female and a veteran of the food industry, told me the reason was that the hours were not conducive to having a family. There were also a few others: the young chef wrote of not just the anti social hours but the macho culture, lewd conversation, unflattering clothing and physical hard work resulting in varicose veins and scars.
This experience is echoed today by Peggy Chan, chef owner of Grassroots Pantry in Hong Kong. “Unfortunately, there’s only a very rare breed of women who are capable of making it through the hours, the screams, the heat and physical pain, the sexist comments, foul language and very often feeling belittled,” says Chan. “Not to mention the sacrifices involved especially when it comes to personal time for relationships: Friday night outings with girlfriends, starting a family etc.”
“AGED MANDARIN SEA BASS” – pan roasted suzuki sea bass / aged mandarin peel jam / lobster orange sauce/ fennel pollen / baby fennel by Vicky Lau at Tate Dining Room, Hong Kong
It seems that in Asia, there are specific problems. “It’s tough enough in French kitchens, let alone working a wok over massive open flames in Asian kitchens,” says Chan. “Physically, it is much more demanding for an Asian woman much smaller in size to man and manage a male dominated brigade. And there are existing archetypes present in the psyches of Asian cultures (men as the head of the household).”
Vicky Lau also believes that traditional cooking techniques may play a part. “In Asia, perhaps more women choose to be in patisserie rather than cuisine due to the nature of the cuisine itself. For example, in a traditional Chinese kitchen the equipment can be quite weighty,” she says.
“There is no place for women in the professional Chinese Kitchen,” says Margaret Xu the owner of Yin Yang and one of the first female chefs in Hong Kong. “It’s a male dominated, chauvinistic crowd and there’s a lot of heavy duty labour – handling big woks and whole pigs. Some male kitchen kitchen staff tend to think physical strength means competence as a chef.”
In the West names like Alice Waters, Angela Hartnett, Elena Arzak and April Bloomfield may be well known But can you name an equally prominent Asian female chef? Perhaps Duongporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava of Bo.lan in Bangkok who was the inaugural Asia’s Best Female Chef winner or Lanshu Chen of Le Mout in Taiwan who won last year.
Veuve Clicquot Asia’s Best Female Chef 2014 Lanshu Chen at Le Mout, Taiwan
Ping Coombes, the Malaysian born winner of MasterChef UK 2014 says: “There weren’t really any well known female chefs when I was growing up as it really still is a very male dominated industry. In Asia, I feel women are still being viewed as the home cook. I always looked up to my mother when it came to cooking.” Similarly Chan says: “I grew up with a culinary certified mother who cooked massive feasts at home and always thought women were meant to cook at home, not in professional kitchens. The ratio of male to female at my culinary school was about 80:20.”
Both Vicky Lau and Lanshu Chen cite male mentors (Sebastien Lepinoy of Cepage in Hong Kong and Jean-Francois Piege at Hotel de Crillon in Paris respectively). Songvisava was a protégé of David Thompson at Nahm. Janice Wong, the two times Asia’s Best Pastry Chef, of 2am Dessert Bar in Singapore names Gunther Hubrechsen at Les Amis in Singapore who now has his own restaurant there, Gunther’s.
And Lau and Chen cite European and US fellow female chefs they admire – Dominique Crenn at Atelier Crenn, San Francisco and Anne-Sophie Pic from Maison Pic, France – rather than Asian ones. (Although Lau also mentions her successor Chen).
Female chefs are all too often found in the “ghetto” of the pastry section. Peggy Chan says numerous instructors at catering college tried to convince her to take this route: “rather than tough it out in the male dominated hot kitchens. There was always a clear distinction, almost as though it’s an expectation for girls my size to take the more feminine, meticulous and less ‘intense’ path in order to be considered ‘a chef’. Former Asia’s Best Female Chef Lanshu Chen made a conscientious decision to move out of patisserie. Angela Hartnett’s advice to young female chefs?: “Don’t take the option of the pastry section.”
“ZEN GARDEN” – mignardises by Vicky Lau at Tate Dining Room, Hong Kong
And if women aren’t making it to head chef, they aren’t getting the media coverage either. Jason Black, chef and media consultant says: “We sadly live in a world where we only champion the people at the top (be they male or female). If I had to ask you the name of the sous chefs at 99% of the restaurants in HK, you wouldn’t be able to answer.”
Black’s cookbook calendar sold for charity and featuring notable Asia based chefs sparked a controversy earlier this month, one of the reasons being the lack of female chefs featured. But he says the reason is pragmatic. “This project was done at my own cost and I was very lucky to secure Ermenegildo Zegna as a fashion partner this year. They only make a men’s range. Given that it is not a “best of” [chefs] publication, having an all male line-up publication worked.”
That said, Black says about the female chef imbalance: “I really believe classifying by gender is wrong. Everyone should be given equal opportunity to succeed. I think Grassroots Pantry is one of the best restaurants around and Ta Pantry is one of the best Private kitchens too. They are such because of the skills of the chefs behind them. That they are run by female chefs for me is a complete non-issue.”
Margaret Xu agrees: “I think a best female chef award is condescending by nature. The best chef is the best chef full stop.” But Black adds: “If championing our chefs based on their gender or ethnicity is a way of encouraging people to get into the industry then I guess it is ok.”
When I asked David Thompson if he thought there were any female Thai chefs to watch out for he said: “There are many young, up-and-coming Thai cooks [male and female] which is just fantastic. But I have my eye on Chef Nan Bunyasaranand who runs Little Beast in Bangkok.”
“FOIE GRAS TERRINE” duck foie gras terrine / spices & curry tuile / pommery mustard ice cream / blueberry sauce by Vicky Lau at Tate Dining Room, Hong Kong
And both Margaret Xu and Vicky Lau think the situation is changing. “I have been noticing some changes over the years with more female chefs making an impact in Hong Kong and the world’s best kitchens, especially in traditional Chinese kitchens with advances in technology and materials,” says Lau. “At my own kitchen at Tate, the kitchen staff has a female to male ratio of 3:1 – a happy coincidence but also perhaps a sign of the times.”
Emilia Clarke and Henry Golding at Alexandra Palace ice rink Credit: UPI
Now showing on HBO, Last Christmas the movie Henry Golding’s new film co starring Emilia Clarke and Michelle Yeoh makes London look wonderful. Director Paul Feig is a huge fan of the British capital and says the film is a love letter to London. The movie was actually filmed last Christmas when all the city’s festive decorations were in place. A lot of scenes took place in the middle of the night for maximum light sparkling and minimum crowds. Here’s where you can find the most scenic locations.
Tom and Kate’s Meet Cute, Apple Market
Henry Golding and Emilia Clarke at Apple Market Credit: UPI
Flakey Kate (Emilia Clarke) first spots suave Tom (Henry Golding) through the window of Yuletide Wonderful Christmas shop where she works in Covent Garden Piazza, owned by Michelle Yeoh’s character “Santa”. Alas the shop doesn’t actually exist. IRL the site is a covered walkway cutting through the neo classical buildings of the former fruit and vegetable market. On the plus side it’s flanked rather deliciously by Ladurée tea room and Godiva chocolatier. And you can visit the spot where the two meet outside Yuletide – underneath the blue metal arches in Apple Market where a certain incident involving “looking up” seemingly brings them together.
Emilia Clarke and Henry Golding in Brydges Place Credit: UPI
When Kate and Tom run into each other again it’s also in the Covent Garden area. Though it looks like a film set, this quaint lane is real life Cecil Court. Linking Charing Cross Road with St Martin’s Lane, the pedestrianised street is lined with independent stores selling books and artworks. “London’s narrowest alley” where Tom takes Kate as part of his magical mystery tour of London is real too. Keep a close eye out for Brydges Place next to the Coliseum theatre on St Martin’s Lane – the alley measures only 15 inches across. As for Tom’s “secret garden”, it’s The Phoenix Garden an urban retreat hidden away between Soho and Covent Garden (the entrance is on St Giles Passage).
Emilia Clarke and Henry Golding in The Phoenix Garden
The two part company at a bus stop on Regent Street which has just turned 200 years old – well worth a visit to see the wonderful illuminated Angels flying above the length of the thoroughfare at this time of year. Tip: the scene was not actually filmed at real bus stop as it’s opposite Hamley’s toy emporium and outside Hackett where no stop exists.
St Mary’s, Marylebone
Emilia Clarke outside St Mary’s Credit: UPI
The gorgeous honey stoned building depicting the exterior of St Benedict’s homeless shelter in Last Christmas can be found in Marylebone, north of Oxford Street. While the photogenic Georgian columns, festooned with twinkling lights, provide a backdrop for several scenes featuring Tom and Kate, the ornate interior is the setting for the Christmas concert.
The Savoy Buildings
Emilia Clarke and Henry Golding outside Simpson’s in the Strand Credit: UPI
Kate’s calamitous audition takes place inside the Savoy Theatre, an Art Deco jewel tucked away next to The Savoy hotel’s main entrance on the Strand. It’s worth buying tickets to anything showing here just to see the interiors. Nearby is the spot on the river Thames where Tom gives Kate another pep talk, opposite The Savoy’s riverside entrance on the Embankment. The pair sit on the steps next to Cleopatra’s Needle, where the Thames bends at just the right angle to have the London Eye over on the South Bank appealingly illuminated in the background. Simpson’s, a restaurant owned by The Savoy, outside of which Kate and Tom sit with their skates on (see below) is back up on the Strand. There’s no bench outside Simpson’s but there is a bus stop should you wish to catch a double-decker like Kate.
Alexandra Palace
Emilia Clarke and Henry Golding at Alexandra Palace ice rink Credit: UPI
While the ice rink where the couple have an illicit late night skate appears in the movie to be a short skip from the Embankment, you’ll need to visit far flung north London. Alexandra Palace is a vast Victorian era building known to locals as “Ally Pally” which houses a huge indoor ice rink among other venues. The rink is in a stunning high ceilinged space lined with French windows and it’s open all year round not just for Christmas.
Tom’s Flat, East London
Tom’s tiny, ultra neat flat is located on the corner of Brick Lane and Cheshire Street in East London. Brick Lane has long been famous for its curry houses and more recently for cafes, shops and street art. By coincidence Henry Golding actually used to live in a flat here, just around the corner from his character’s fictitious one. How’s that for a twist of fate.
[UPDATE: If you live in Singapore lucky you, you’re eligible for Scott Dunn’s staycation flash offer at Raffles. Priced exclusively at S$1,330nett for a two night stay between 1 October and 13 December 2020, enjoy complimentary breakfast for two at the Tiffin Room, the Raffles Heritage Evening dinner experience for two at The Grand Lobby, a specially curated trishaw ride around Raffles Singapore detailing the locations mentioned in A Life Intertwined: Reminiscences of an Accidental Raffles Historian and an autographed copy of the book by Mr Leslie Danker himself. This flash offer is valid for 24 hours (book by 16 September 2020) at http://www.scottdunn.com ]
Raffles hotel in Singapore has today reopened following a two and a half year, multi million dollar refurbishment. Here’s what to expect from the revamp by interior designer Champalimaud and architect Aedas.
The grand lobby has a fresher feel and a new, stunning take on a chandelier. Afternoon tea will now be served here rather than being side lined to the Tiffin Room (more on which later). The heavy wooden reception desk with pigeon holes behind has been replaced by a more inviting desk and chairs, more in keeping with luxury 21st century hotels.
Grand Lobby at Raffles Hotel SingaporeReception at Raffles Hotel Singapore
Off the lobby, the Grill restaurant has been replaced by a new venture from chef Anne-Sophie Pic whose restaurant in France holds three Michelin stars.
The room is almost unrecognisable from the former Grill with softer tones and furnishings though the white columns and French windows overlooking the Palm Court remain.
La Dame de Pic at Raffles hotel Singapore
It’s also gratifying to see that the alcove tables in the restaurant still in situ, albeit with a more modern edge. Statement lighting abounds here too.
La Dame de Pic at Raffles Hotel Singapore
On the other side of the lobby the Tiffin Room, serving Northern Indian cuisine, has re opened. This too has been given a transformation with the addition of open shelving displaying tiffin boxes (naturally) and Chinese porcelain and again, statement light fittings. The new furniture with a nod to colonial style (dark wood and rattan) is said to be inspired by the hotel’s archives.
Tiffin Room at Raffles Hotel Singapore
Elsewhere in the hotel, a new Alain Ducasse restaurant in the Bar and Billiard room and Yì by Jeremy Leung are due to open in September.
All the suites have been restored and look lighter while retaining a heritage feel. The separate parlour room has been retained in the Stateroom, Promenade, Courtyard, Palm Court and Personality suites – a good choice since it’s so synonymous with guest rooms at Raffles.
Updated technology and bathrooms also figure with Peranakan inspired tiles in the latter – in homage to the Chinese Malay settlers in Singapore.
Courtyard Suite at Raffles Hotel SingaporeCourtyard Suite Parlour at Raffles Hotel Singapore
To celebrate the opening Raffles is offering two special rate packages: Opening Package From now till 31 October 2019 guests may upgrade their stay for S$120 plus taxes per night including additional privileges of daily breakfast for two either in their suite, on the verandahs poolside or at Tiffin Room. They will also receive a $100 daily credit for spending at the Raffles Spa or at one of the restaurants. A commemorative Raffles heritage souvenir and guaranteed late checkout until 3.00pm is also included. Staycation Package Available to residents of Singapore, this staycation offers a 50% reduction on an adjourning suite for families to stay together. The package includes daily semi buffet breakfast for two adults at Tiffin Room, where children can dine for free (for two children aged 12 and under), S$50 Raffles Spa Credit per adult per stay, Raffles Children Customised Programme, Complimentary souvenir for children from the Raffles Boutique, guaranteed late check out till 3pm, early check in at noon, subject to availability, 10% off Raffles merchandise at the Raffles Boutique. Adjourning suites are subjected to availability of interconnecting suites. More details on offers are available at www.rafflessingapore.com and enquiries or reservations can be made via singapore@raffles.com
[UPDATE: Parts of this trip have changed since we took the journey but a visit to the infamous Bridge over the River Kwai and the Thailand Burma Railway Centre and Prisoners of War cemetery is still an option. It was the most moving part of experience.]
Cocktail hour can be a precarious business on board the Eastern & Oriental Express. There’s a risk of losing great splashes of your G&T overboard with every sway of the train. But standing on the open sided observation deck at sunset, passing by the verdant scenery of South East Asia, is worth any effort incurred. And of course being a passenger on a luxury train is really no effort at all.
Our journey had begun in Singapore where we spent the night at Raffles whose white shutters, balustrades and wrap around balconies outside; and dark wood, ceiling fans and antique furniture within took us back to a more gracious era. Perfect before boarding the E&O for a three-day journey through Malaysia and into Thailand, disembarking in Bangkok.
Pic: Shane Arnold
Now, 24 hours later, we are deep into the Malaysian countryside. And with darkness swallowing up the last of the view, it’s time to dress for dinner. The E&O is owned by the Orient-Express company [Update: now rebranded Belmond]and as such features exquisite marquetry and fabrics. Unlike the Venice Simplon train that runs through Europe, the carriages are not Art Deco originals. But what they lack in authenticity they make up for in modern comforts – ensuite bathrooms, the aforementioned observation deck and a reading room (home to a resident reflexologist and a fortune teller). There’s also the bonus of some pit stops along the way.
Eastern & Oriental
The first takes place just before dinner when we pull in to Kuala Lumpur station. It’s fun to walk up and down the platform in our finery, and see the pleasure on the commuters’ faces when they look at our gleaming train, but the best bit is to come. As we leave the station, tucking into our first course of goose liver wrapped in Chinese with pumpkin and coconut veloute, we spot the Petronas Towers sparkling in the darkness.
Eastern & Oriental Pic: Mark Hind
In the bar car after dinner the gregarious pianist, Peter, keeps playing until the last guest goes to bed. On this occasion, not us – we are out stayed by a young couple from the UK. When we return to our State cabin it has been transformed into a bedroom, the sofa and lounge chair magically turned into twin beds.
Eastern & Oriental Pic: Mark Hind
“Did you sleep well?” enquires our steward, Sarawut, as he brings us breakfast in our cabin the next morning. When we sheepishly reply in the negative he is not that surprised. “Some people don’t on the first night, it’s like sleeping through an earthquake.” At 8.35am we pull into Butterworth station. All the passengers set off on the first of our excursions to the island of Penang, passing a sous chef wheeling a trolley filled with ice along the platform.
Georgetown, the capital, has UNESCO heritage status on account of its abundance of historical buildings. We are all now settled into trishaws as we are pedalled around the ancient streets. Had I known it was an unofficial race I may have chosen a younger cyclist – the task of pushing both me and my husband seems a little much for ours. But the leisurely pace means we get a good view of the beautiful buildings from old merchants houses to Chinese temples filled with red lanterns or bright pink firecrackers. We pass through Little India, China Town and the Street of Harmony (so called because it’s home to a church, a temple and a mosque) and make a promise to return for a longer stay.
Eastern & Oriental Pic: Ian Lloyd
Back on board it’s time for lunch. From his tiny galley kitchen chef Yannis Martineau has prepared a tom yam vichyssoise with quail followed by pan roasted seabass with Sichuan style vegetables. Yannis’ dishes are a perfect blend of East meets West with local ingredients and techniques incorporated with his French fine dining background. At Penang, he took the opportunity to stock up on spices which will we try tonight in a delicious beef medallion curry.
We gain an hour today, as we cross the border into Thailand. The scenery changes noticeably. Palm trees give way to paddy fields, small temples can be glimpsed through tree tops and in the distance we spot a huge golden Buddha statue.
Eastern & Oriental Pic: Ron Bambridge
From the observation deck we get an unbeatable taste of local life. We pass through rural stations where food stalls are set up along the platform. A couple of Buddhist monks in their distinctive orange robes chat on a bench. In one village the locals are sitting in a row of deckchairs having an evening foot rub. Children riding bicycles try to keep up with us. Everywhere, people stare or smile and wave – the train has an uplifting affect on everyone who sees it.
Eastern & Oriental Pic: Mark Hind
To celebrate our crossing into Thailand, a traditional Thai dancer is performing in the bar car this evening. There’s the usual merriment as the she entices guests up to join her. The trip is a convivial one: there’s something about a train journey that draws people together. Friendships are forged in the bar car, on the observation deck, over lunch and dinner. Our fellow passengers range from other couples to families with young children or teenagers, and several singles. There are honeymooners, Ruby wedding celebrators and at least one blossoming romance.
Our last day on board and the train manager announces that we are running slightly late but I think we are all secretly pleased to have some extra time on the train. When we pull into a stop right next to the River Kwai bridge we cause quite a stir. The tourists are intrigued and delighted by the train.
Eastern & Oriental Pic: Ian Lloyd
We leave them to their photography and embark on a gentle raft journey along the Kwai, floating under the notorious bridge as a local historian tells its story. Our tour continues to the Thailand Burma Railway Centre, a small but well run museum and the adjacent cemetery for Prisoners of War – a soothingly pretty spot. Everyone seems moved by this visit; it is undoubtedly one of the best experiences of the trip.
We re-board the train at the photogenic Kanchanaburi station for the last leg of the journey. As we draw closer to Bangkok the temples become bigger and more frequent. On the outskirts of the city, hard hatted construction workers wave at the train with the same enthusiasm as the school children in the countryside.
Soon we draw alongside canals – the city’s famous khlongs – and know we about to reach Hualamphong station. The frenetic station is a shock after the cosseting of our train trip but we are soon back to the comfort we have grown accustomed to when we check into the Mandarin Oriental. We are staying in the Author’s Wing, the original part of the hotel named after the likes of Somerset Maughan and Noel Coward who stayed here. At the heart of it is a gorgeous colonial style conservatory with rattan chairs, cream shutters and a Gone with the Wind staircase. It’s as fitting an end to our trip – although you can also take the train from Bangkok to Singapore, with an extra night onboard.
Inside the Authors’ Wing at the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok
On our last evening in Bangkok we catch the wooden shuttle boat over the Chao Praya river to the hotel’s Sala Rim Naam restaurant. In the opulent setting of a Thai pavilion we feast on the set banquet menu including fried snow fish in red chilli sauce, roasted duck with tamarind and warm flour dumplings with coconut milk. All the while entertained by a traditional show.
Mandarin Oriental boats crossing the Chao Praya river
Tomorrow we will be leaving Thailand but alas the journey involves airports and planes not stations and luxury trains. If only travel was always as glamorous as the E&O.
[UDPATE Atlas has won been awarded Best Bar in Asia in The World’s 50 Best Bars 2020]
Westworld season three sees the storyline move outside of the Western theme park as the hosts seek to discover “the real world”. And what a world it is when the scenes are shot in Singapore. For the city state looks magnificent on camera with its beguiling blend of steel and glass skyscrapers and lush tropical foliage. And especially at night as the Formula One coverage has long proven and Westworld 3 displays in lingering shots of the Marina Bay area, Raffles Place skyline and the twinkling Esplanade theatre roof.
It’s this mix that caught the eye of Westworld co-creators Lisa Joy and Jonathan Nolan. “The goal from the beginning was to find the future. If you go out in the world the future is there, it’s in places like Singapore,” Nolan says in Westworld’s Behind the Scenes aftershow on HBO.
“There’s nowhere that looks like Singapore. There is a shape to the skyline that no other city has. There is a beautiful curvature to it that is really unique and interesting,” Joy told media during filming. “[And] It’s the ways in which nature entangles with modernity here. Singapore has done this incredible job of integrating nature into the city.”
For the most part the Lion City is mainly masquerading as a futuristic Los Angeles though it gets a name check in episode four. “Another simulation? Well this one is a bit over the top,” snaps Thandie Newton at the Atlas Bar only to be told “No Maeve, it’s Singapore.”.
While the cast Evan Rachel Wood, Jeffrey Wright and Luke Hemsworth Instagramed themselves visiting the Botanical Gardens, Haw Par Villa and Sentosa’s Adventure Cove waterpark, here are some of the key locations in episode one and beyond.
Parkroyal Collection Pickering
In the opening scenes of series 3 we catch a glimpse of this hotel close to the CBD and Chinatown in a flashback shared with Evan Rachel Wood’s Dolores (now a champagne quaffing killer in a little black dress and heels). Specifically the roof terrace with its distinctive bird cage cabanas and infinity pool. In a later episode the hotel’s exterior is shown in its full splendour, all curved lines and draped with greenery. Charlotte Hale (or whoever is inhabiting her body since she was killed at the end of series two) meets Dolores here for a martini. The interior shots of the bar and bedrooms are not the Parkroyal though – in reality these are pared back, Scandi chic. The cast and crew did however stay here during filming. Jeffrey Wright who plays Bernard posted an impressive picture of the hotel on Instagram with the caption “’Til next time, Singapore.”
Marina One
Dolores arrives in LA by futuristic looking helicopter. The building she exits though, having landed on the roof, is in actual fact in Singapore. An aerial shot focuses on a courtyard garden surrounded by multi level, loop shaped walkways. And Dolores walks through the garden (complete with three storey waterfall) when she demands: “Find me something fast.” Although it looks as if it could have been created for a dystopian fantasy, this is the Green Heart at Marina One, an exclusive condo, office and retail complex between Marina Bay and the CBD. The garden was designed to provide shade for office workers, shoppers and now presumably tourists.
SOTA
We are introduced to new character, Caleb, an ex soldier played by Breaking Bad’s Aaron Paul, visiting his mother in hospital – in reality the School of the Arts (SOTA) – before leaving at the Stadium MRT station. Spectacular looking SOTA, made up of three towers connected by bridges and again dripping with foliage, is a high school dedicated to visual and performing arts. Its three performance spaces – the concert hall, the Drama Theatre and the more intimate Studio – are open to the public for performances.
Lasalle College of the Arts
Caleb seemingly attends a job interview at Lasalle’s McNally campus, noticeable for its striking multi faceted glass facade. Then in episode three Caleb and Dolores are filmed outside Lasalle following, not to give anything away, their first official introduction (but not first actual meeting which occurred in episode one’s unconventional meet cute). The college’s prominent Expression and Collaboration signs are strangely apt in the scene.
Orchard Road
When Caleb takes a phone call about his job interview against a backdrop of brightly lit designer stores and neon illuminated steps at night it’s between Wisma Atria and Ion shopping centres on Orchard Road. Sensibly Caleb is there in the evening, the best time to visit rather than during the punishing sun of the day. Had Caleb nipped inside the Ion he probably would have skipped all the cookie cutter international stores and headed to the sub basement four levels underground and Food Opera with its hawker style stalls.
The Helix
Taking another call, again at night, Caleb walks across the eye catching Helix bridge, the Singapore Flyer observation wheel just visible in the background. The pedestrian bridge links the Marina Centre waterfront with Marina Bay Sands and is so called as it’s constructed of a double Helix ie it apes the shape of a double stranded DNA molecule. At night The Helix looks particularly spectacular and futuristic as the neon LED lighting emphasises the parallel curved steel structure.
Pulau Ubin
At the close of episode one Bernard walks through a kampong before approaching a local fisherman at the jetty and asking him to take him to Westworld. The scenes were filmed on Pulau Ubin, an undeveloped island a 15 minute bum boat ride from Singapore’s Changi Point ferry terminal though a million miles away in other aspects. Pulau Ubin is a glimpse of how Singapore used to be, and a side that tourists rarely see.
Atlas Bar
Thandie Newton’s Maeve and Vincent Cassel playing new character Serac meet for a drink at the visually ravishing Atlas Bar. Maeve is still knocking back the sherry (“In the largest glass you’ve got”. Perhaps she’s heard about Singapore’s notoriously small pours) although gin and champagne are the house specialities.
“If you really wanted to impress me you’d have taken me to Paris,” she quips to Cassel. The line is doubly amusing as Atlas is a new build, designed in homage to the original Art Deco European brasseries. While it’s consistently voted one of Singapore’s favourite bars, it feels decidedly theme park-ish which makes it perfect for a Westworld location.
National Gallery Singapore
Dolores and Caleb’s visit to “the bank for a certain social set” takes place inside the National Gallery, the former Supreme Court and City Hall. The design, 19th century architecture mixed with modern additions of glass and steel, alone is worth a visit. Design and history tours take place daily during the week and twice a day at weekends. The pair’s banking transaction scene was shot in the Terrace, an event space in the Supreme Court Wing next to the Rotunda. You can actually go inside the dome as it’s a library (open Monday to Fridays except public holidays).
Visitors are also spoilt for choice for bars and restaurants here including rooftop Smoke and Mirrors where there’s a bird’s eye view of the curvaceous Singapore skyline beloved of Westworld’s creators.
Food Street
Chinatown’s Food Street is where we see Maeve meander under the red lanterns and past the roast meat and noodle stalls in episode four. (Though the beginning of the scene was actually shot over on Orchard Road with Maeve in front of Orchard Gateway and Peranakan Place). Following a multi million dollar revamp, the shophouse lined street with all weather roof is probably the most theme park-esque of all the Westworld 3 locations.
Belgravia the new lavish costume drama by Downton Abbey creator Julian Fellowes based on his best selling novel of the same name is just the sort of television indulgence we need right now. The series showing on ITV and Epix features an ensemble cast of impressive British actors including Tamsin Greig, Philip Glenister, Alice Eve, Harriet Walker and Ella Purnell (“baby monster” in the Sweetbitter TV show). Fellowes’ story follows the upwardly mobile Trenchard family from the Duchess of Richmond’s legendary ball on the eve of the Battle of Waterloo in 1815 to London’s grandest new neighbourhood, Belgravia, in the 1840s.
The Trenchards’ beautiful young daughter Sophia falls for the dashing Lord Bellasis, who is several rungs above her on the social ladder, in the heady days before Waterloo in Belgium. A few decades later the families become entwined again as they move to the newly fashionable Belgravia where old and new money live side by side though not necessarily in harmony. Here’s five things to know:
Belgravia – ITV and Epix
The story combines fictitious and real characters
Fellowes details the lives of the fictitious (newly wealthy) Trenchards and the (aristocratic) Brockenhursts interspersed with real historical figures including the aforementioned Duchess of Richmond, pioneering builder Thomas Cubitt who created the Belgravia area of London and the Duchess of Bedford who invented the concept of afternoon tea.
This exclusive enclave was created from scratch on swampland
The “spangled city for the rich” as Lady Brockenhurst describes it in the television series was developed in the 1820s. Ship’s carpenter turned master builder Thomas Cubitt designed the wedding cake style white stuccoed and porticoed town houses on the smart streets, crescents and garden squares. Behind were cobbled Mews to house the staff. “It was a total concept,” Fellowes told The Telegraph. “It was an attempt to build a society that was going to work. You build places for horses, carriages, upper servants. The interesting thing about Belgravia is that it was made up from scratch. If you dig through Belgravia, you don’t get to Georgian London, there’s just swamp. There’s not much in London that is equivalent.”
Belgravia – ITV and Epix
Filming actually took place in Edinburgh.
“It’s quite impossible to shoot in Belgravia,” the show’s producer Gareth Neame told History Extra website. “There’s no way you can shut down these parts of London and have horses and carriages going around for four days. So what we did was to go to the New Town of Edinburgh.”
Belgravia is owned by one family
Bordering Buckingham Palace, Knightsbridge and Hyde Park the land was, and still is, owned by the Grosvenors. The name Belgravia stems from the location of their country estate in Belgrave, north west England after which the centre piece square was called. Eaton Square is named the family’s seat, Eaton Hall. The current patriarch is 29 year old Hugh Grosvenor, 7th Duke of Westminster.
Peggy Porschen, Belgravia
Belgravia has some of London’s chicest boutiques and cafes
While largely residential as well as being home to several embassies, shops and cafes have cropped up on picturesque Elizabeth Street. These include Beulah the sustainable designer label worn by the Duchess of Cambridge, Jo Loves by beauty guru Jo Malone and the much Instagramed Peggy Porschen bakery.
[UPDATE: The Savoy appears on the inaugural World’s 50 Best Hotels list, launched 2023]
When it comes to sleeping I’m definitely in the Princess and the Pea camp, I tend to toss and turn throughout the night rarely getting a restful 8 hours. So I was intrigued to check into the Royal Suite at The Savoy, London where an exclusive handcrafted bed has been installed promising a superlative sleep.Befitting the vast suite (it takes up the entire river side of the fifth floor) decorated in an elegant Edwardian style, the bed itself looks straight out of a fairytale. And the ornate four poster king with draped canopy has added advantages in a handmade box spring base, mattress and topper valued around SG$150,000.
Sitting room in The Savoy’s Royal Suite
As with all the best mattresses The Savoy’s are made with horse tail between pocket springs. The one in the Royal Suite also features a hand tufted topper made by yarn specialist Tengri from rare fur – hand combed once a year from yaks roaming the Khangai mountains of Mongolia. Their hair is softer than cashmere with exceptional temperature regulating properties so perfect for aiding sleep.It’s the creation of prestigious British brand Savoir which has been hand making beds for the hotel for over 100 years. When Richard D’Oyly Carte opened The Savoy in 1889 he set new standards for luxury hotels in London. He couldn’t find a bed maker that met his exacting criteria so Savoir was formed to create beds for The Savoy.
The Savoy hotel London
My first impression is that the mattress is surprisingly firm. But it also has just enough flexibility and I don’t feel any points of undue pressure – it’s just right, as Goldilocks would say. I close my eyes with the intention of a 20 minute afternoon nap and I wake up over an hour later.The true test though comes after supper in the suite’s dining room overlooking the Thames (the view that Claude Monet painted) and impeccably served by morning coated butlers. While I still wake up several times in the night as is my wont I immediately fall back to sleep each time. Even more remarkably the back pain I’d been feeling the day before had disappeared.
Dining Room in the Royal Suite at The Savoy, London
Usually (and frustratingly) I’m not able to lie in, restless to get up by 7am, but here I found the opposite. The only thing that eventually tempts me out of bed is the thought of Omelette Arnold Bennett for breakfast: made with smoked haddock, hollandaise sauce and cheese, perfected for the writer while he stayed at The Savoy in 1920s. After a call to the butler I’m tucking into this moreish dish and taking in the marvellous London view. Did I feel I’d slept in a bed fit for a king or queen? A resounding yes.
[UPDATE: To celebrate the house of Gucci’s one hundredth anniversary and in honour of founder Guccio Gucci once having worked as a bell boy at The Savoy, the hotel’s Royal Suite has been “Guccified”. It is thought that Guccio was inspired to create Gucci, originally a luxury luggage label, by handling the expensive baggage of the hotel’s guests. Savoy X Gucci sees the Royal Suite transformed with furniture, soft furnishings and objets from the Gucci Decor Collection.]
[This story was originally published in July 2019]
[UPDATE: InterContinental Hong Kong announces that its 1-MICHELIN Star Rech restaurant has closed as of today, March 12, 2020. The hotel will continue to work with Ducasse Paris on the development of a new restaurant concept to be launched following the hotel’s major renovation and consequent rebranding to Regent Hong Kong, with an anticipated reopening in 2022.]
Legendary chef Alain Ducasse’s first foray into food was not a runaway success. As a child growing up in France he would watch his grandmother cooking and aged about 11 he decided to make a chocolate roulade himself. “My grandmother let me attempt this, although I was not up to the task,” Ducasse recalls. “Chocolate ended up everywhere and in the end the cake did not resemble a roulade at all!”
Luckily for the culinary world Ducasse was not put off by his early endeavour. Last month saw the opening of his 25th restaurant worldwide. He has chosen Asia for the first international outpost of Rech Alain Ducasse, a French seafood restaurant replacing his Spoon concept at the Intercontinental hotel in Hong Kong
“I have a long relationship with Intercontinental Hong Kong so together we looked at the Hong Kong dining scene, local tastes and global travelers’ expectations and we agreed that the new restaurant should keep its French inspiration,” he says. “We decided that a fish restaurant with a Parisian history would be a great addition to the market.” (The storied Rech was created in Paris in 1925 by Adrien Rech and brought into the Ducasse fold ten years ago.) “And the location offers the best views of the harbour,” Ducasse adds with a nod to the seafood menu.
Alain Ducasse was one of the first world famous chefs to open a restaurant in Asia with the launch of Spoon at the Intercontinental Hong Kong in 2003. “The opening started a trend in Hong Kong with other internationally acclaimed chefs openings outposts there,” he says. “Over the past decade the city has seen a culinary boom with many interesting restaurants showcasing every type of cuisine imaginable.”
Now head of a hospitality empire that spans restaurants, inns and colleges, Ducasse began training as a chef in France at 16. At the age of only 33, the 33 month old restaurant Le Louis XV which he helmed at the Hotel de Paris in Monaco became the first hotel restaurant to be awarded three Michelin Stars. Then in 1998 Ducasse became the first “six star chef” with three Michelin stars for Le Louis XV and three stars for Alain Ducasse in Paris. The latter has this year regained a position on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. In Hong Kong though, Spoon dropped a Michelin star in 2016 and lost it’s remaining star in the 2017 Guide – surely one of the driving forces behind the new Rech restaurant.
More Alain Ducasse restaurants are planned for Asia in the near future including Japan, adding to Beige and Benoit both in Tokyo, and an eatery in Macau is slated to open within the next two years. Ducasse Education, the educational arm of the Alain Ducasse empire, is also expanding including in Asia.
The first franchise college opened in Manila, the Philippines in 2009 and at least two Ducasse Education Institutes will open in Shanghai and Hong Kong by 2019. In fact the chef and restaurateur cites his work in culinary education as his proudest achievement: “What is really important to me is to pass on what I have learned and am still learning, and to motivate the younger generation so they embrace this profession.”
Ducasse credits the great French chefs and pioneers of nouvelle cuisine Michel Guerard, Roger Verge and Alain Chapel along with celebrated pastry chef Gaston Lenotre as his biggest influences. It was through Roger Verge who a young Ducasse worked for at the renowned Moulin de Mougins that he encountered the flavours of Provencal cuisine which were to become an integral part of his own cooking.
While he is no longer in the kitchen, Ducasse still creates the recipes for his restaurants with inspiration coming from mother nature. “I was born and raised on a farm and when I was growing up my grandmother cooked for the entire family using vegetables from the garden and poultry and eggs from the farm,” he says. “For me, nature comes before cooking. I get my inspiration from sourcing the very best ingredients and produce. I am very demanding with the quality and seasonality.”
This is much in evidence on the menu at Rech in Hong Kong. “Most of the fish is sourced in France from small, independent fisherman who are strongly involved in the protection of natural resources,” he says. “We will source some ingredients locally such as lobster and some of the vegetables.”
Specialities include four types of French oyster and pan seared sole from Brittany in France filleted table side. Camembert from the French region of Normandy and matured for 30 days is the only cheese served while desserts include Mr Rech, comprising hazelnut meringue, hazelnut ice cream and warm chocolate sauce made with Alain Ducasse’s own chocolate. Extra large eclairs designed for sharing are also on the menu – probably a far cry from the chef’s first chocolate creation back in his family’s farmhouse.
[UPDATE: Oberoi Amarvilas appears on the inaugural World’s 50 Best Hotels, launched in 2023
If like the Trumps you’re planning a visit to the Taj Mahal, there’s only one way to do it in style and that’s by staying at the Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra.
Not only does this glamorous, film set of a resort have a bird’s eye view of the iconic monument from most of its rooms and terraces, it’s also the only hotel in Agra to have private access via golf buggy right up to the gates.
To your beloved’s stomach. Chopstix is partial to a hand decorated iced cookie and these writing themed ones well, they take the biscuit. Today is the last day to order from Fortnum & Mason for Valentine’s Day deliveries.
[In homage to the Mushrooms: The Art, Design and Future of Fungi exhibition opening at Somerset House in London today, including edible tours and a pop up feast, Chopstix looks back at the Krug Mushroom experience in 2017.]
Krug has launched an exclusive champagne and mushroom tasting trail across top restaurants in Singapore as part of its latest single ingredient showcase. Chefs at five eateries in the city have created mushroom focused dishes designed to pair perfectly with Krug Grand Cuvee, a champagne blended from over 120 wines from more than 10 different years and aged for a further 15.
“We want to show the individual character of the champagne,” Moet Hennessy brand manager Lucie Pugnot says of the collaboration which sees Krug select one ingredient for chefs to work with. “The first year we chose the simple potato, then last year the humble egg. This year we chose the mushroom which is also familiar but multifaceted.”The beauty of this fascinating fungi is that it comes in many varieties, including the luxurious truffle, with some types only available in certain months. So the Krug mushroom dishes may evolve according to what produce is available on the day.
Chef Kirk Westaway at Jaan
“The mushrooms keep changing throughout the year and we are all about what’s in season in Europe, particularly in France and the UK,” says Kirk Westaway, head chef at Jaan. So while we sampled the very last morels of the season in his exquisite langoustine with Hollandaise sauce course, this month the dish will segue into grey and blue chanterelles. It’s part of a six course menu matched with three types of Krug champagne including the Grand Cuvee.
Krug x Mushroom dish at the Tippling Club
Similarly at Tippling Club, chef owner Ryan Clift has moved on to girolles sourced from a small farm near Lyon in France along with black truffles as part of a six course menu. “I like to lightly sautee the girolles in butter and add salt at the end,” he says. “Mushrooms should never be seasoned until the last minute – if you add salt at the beginning you draw out the moisture and lose the caramelisation.” A surprisingly delicious component on the plate is a cocks comb which has been confited and pan fried to crispy perfection.
Chef Ryan Clift at the Tippling Club
At the fine dining Song of India restaurant Manjunath Mural is presenting a platter for two people including a tandoori chargrilled portobello mushroom stuffed with Roquefort cheese and spiced with two types of cardamom, chilli and a tamarind foam, matched with a half bottle of Krug Grand Cuvee. “The cheese pairs well with the champagne and I think Indian spices also go very well with it,” says Mural and we have to agree.
Krug x Mushroom dish at Song of India
“We have a lot of very good mushrooms in Japan,” says Hashida Sushi’s Chef Hatch who is originally from Tokyo. “I chose the shitake because it is juicy and has good flavour.” The chef has cleverly transformed the four day fermented mushrooms into an ice cream served with tempura vegetables in a stunning mix of hot and cold on the same plate. The Shitake Ice Cream comes as part of an omasake menu and vegetables featured in the tempura will change according to produce available.
Krug x Mushroom dish at Hashida Sushi
At Atlas you can enjoy a glass or bottle of Krug Grand Cuvee with a gourmet snack befitting its gorgeous bar area. “As an Italian, when I was growing up mushrooms to me meant porcini,” says executive chef Daniele Sperindio. As such he has used porcinis to make a rice “bark” crisp and as the basis of a “Mont Blanc” paste topping along with blue foot mushrooms from France and Singaporean king oyster mushrooms. The result is a striking and richly flavourful canape.
Krug x mushroom dish at Atlas bar
A version of this article was first published in August 2017
In celebration of the Year of the Rat we bring you the University Arms where copies of The Wind in Willows, the tale of Ratty, Mole and Badger written by Kenneth Grahame, are in every guest rooms and a recording of Alan Bennett reading the book is transmitted in the restaurant/bar loos…
University Arms, Cambridge, UK
What’s the story?
Cambridge’s oldest hotel, the University Arms which began life as a coaching inn in 1834, has reopened following a four year, £80m refurbishment. The original classical façade overlooking Parker’s Piece (a green space that was the scene of Queen Victoria’s coronation banquet) has been retained but the interiors have been rebuilt and an out of place 1960s extension has gone. In its place the new building is in keeping with the original style.
University Arms, Cambridge lobby
It looks so authentic…
Architect John Simpson has worked on such grand projects as Buckingham and Kensington Palaces and a couple of Cambridge University colleges so knows a thing or two about classical refurbishments. His design for the University Arms includes a striking porte cochere – a columned, covered carriage entrance, for cars rather than horses these days and a grand lobby inside. It’s hard to believe the new addition to the hotel building hasn’t always been here.
What about the interiors?
They’re down to Martin Brudnizki, designer du jour (responsible for the new Annabel’s clubhouse in Mayfair and the refreshed Ivy in Covent Garden). Overall the feel is of a contemporary private members’ club: Farrow and Ball painted walls, reclaimed wooden floors, antique rugs, on trend ottomans and armchairs and sofas that beg to be sat on.
A suite at the University Arms, Cambridge
What about the rooms?
They span cosy (19-22sq ft) to superior plus there are 12 suites named after Cambridge alumni including Charles Darwin, Virginia Woolf and Stephen Hawking. All the bathrooms have black and white tiles, underfloor heating and DR Harris of St James’s products. Twenty six of them have (roll top, claw foot) baths as well as showers.
Parker’s Tavern restaurant, University Arms
What’s the food like?
The hotel has cleverly recruited talented local (by way of London and Mustique) chef Tristan Welch. With the restaurant, Parker’s Tavern, taking inspiration from a college dining hall with stained glass windows and leather bench seating, the menu offers a modern take on traditional British fare using East Anglian produce including smoked trout, potted shrimp, a daily roast trolley and pie of the day. Don’t miss the Cambridge Burnt Cream pudding – a British take on Crème Brulee.
Is there a bar?
As the name suggests, Parker’s Tavern is split between a restaurant and a sizeable lounge bar where the members’ club atmosphere continues. The bar itself is lined with vintage style leather stools plus there are plenty of velvet sofas, a vast spirits list and strictly no beer on tap.
Parker’s Tavern bar, University Arms
What about my fellow guests?
Visiting academics, students being treated by their parents, tourists from the US and China and tech people (Cambridge is becoming known as the Silicon Valley of the UK).
What is there to do?
The hotel is on the doorstep of the city centre so the historic colleges are a short stroll away – or take one of the hotel’s bicycles in signature light Cambridge blue. Tours as well as punts on the river Cam can be arranged. The hotel will even whip up a picnic for you. If you’re looking for the willow tree celebrated in Xu Zhimo’s poem, Second Farewell to Cambridge, it has recently been removed but a cutting has been planted nearby at the newly opened memorial garden in the poet’s alma mater King’s College.
The Library, University Arms
Anything else I should know?
Playing on the learned location the hotel has made books a feature. Rather than the usual untouched, artful collection the hotel’s guest sitting area, The Library, has a selection intended to actually read curated by the renowned Heywood Hill booksellers in London. Each of the suites includes literature by or about the namesake while the other bedrooms each has a copy of The Wind in the Willows, Porterhouse Blue and Hilaire Belloc’s Cautionary Verses.
What’s the bottom line?
Prices for rooms start at £205 for cosy rooms and £505 for suites.
[UPDATE: For the first time, the Venice Simplon Orient-Express will offer journeys during the month of December this year. The VSOE will travel the Classic Journey from Venice to Paris on 2nd and 12th December 2022, and from Paris to Venice on 20th December. The train will stop in Florence on 7th December (Venice to Paris) and 8th December (Paris to Venice). The train will depart from Paris to Vienna on 17th December, and will make the return journey (Vienna to Paris) on 18th December 2022.]
Now synonymous with Agatha Christie and that infamous journey, the original Euro Night train number 469, monikered the more romantic sounding “Express d’Orient”, made its inaugural journey from Paris bound for Constantinople in October 1883. The train which Christie caught, and placed her fictional sleuth Hercule Poirot onboard, however was the Simplon Orient-Express – one of several luxury sleeper trains that cropped up as an offshoot linking the port town of Calais in northern France with Istanbul (previously Constantinople) and ran through the 1920s and 30s.
Luxury trains fell out of favour with the advent of the second world war and airplane travel. Then American businessman James B Sherwood bought a few antique carriages at auction in Monte Carlo in 1977 which seemingly sparked a quest for him to seek out more vintage carriages. After finding them variously abandoned in sidings and people’s gardens across Europe, used as pigeon transporters and in one case a brothel, they were lovingly restored to their Art Deco splendour and launched as the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express in 1982.
One of the carriages bought by Sherwood at auction in Monaco was sleeping car 3425. It is the oldest of the sleeping cars on the VSOE having been built in 1926 and was marooned in a snow drift 60 miles from Istanbul for 10 days in 1929 (allegedly sparking the idea for a certain murder mystery).
And the Venice Simplon-Orient Express (a mouthful but now the official name for legal reasons) is in the spotlight once again with the release of the new Kenneth Branagh film Murder on the Orient Express starring Judi Dench, Johnny Depp, Michelle Pfieffer and Penelope Cruz. So what’s it like to travel onboard? You’ll be greeted aboard by your be-capped and white gloved personal cabin steward who’ll take care of you for your entire trip. Firstly by showing you to your cosy cabin where your luggage will already be waiting.
VSOE
The twin cabins come with bunk beds – probably the most deluxe ones you’ve encountered with an upholstered ladder. During the day time there’s no sign of your sleeping arrangements but when you return from dinner your cabin steward will have cleverly transformed your sofa into cosy beds with crisp sheets and fine blankets. After breakfast perhaps while you’re taking a stroll the length of the train, your steward will whisk away the beds and your cabin will once again become a sitting area. In true authentic fashion, each cabin has a concealed washbasin while loos are found at the end of each carriage.
VSOE
As well as the famous sleeping cars the train is made up of three dining cars and a bar car complete with grand piano and resident pianist. Each carriage features polished wood, beautiful marquetry, plush fabrics and antique details.
VSOE
The VSOE operates on continental Europe – contrary to popular belief the it does not travel to the UK. Rather, the train is embarked or disembarked at Calais and the journey to or from London is completed through the Euro tunnel and the Belmond British Pullman train once in Britain.
While the most popular route is to and from Venice, just once a year the VSOE makes a five night journey between Paris and Istanbul. The exclusive journey follows the route of the inaugural 1883 train journey stopping in Prague, Budapest and Bucharest along the way.
VSOE
While the Venice journeys have a feel of celebration the journey to Istanbul is about adventure, says general manager Pascal Deyrolle. The six day journey from Paris Gare de l’Est station follows in the footsteps of the original train route in 1883. As the VSOE journeys towards the edge of Europe passengers stop for overnight stays at hotels in Budapest in Hungary and Bucharest in Romania with the rest of the nights spent onboard.
After crossing the Danube from Romania into Bulgaria the train arrives in Varna, a beach resort town with a surprisingly grand station building with a wonderful Art Nouveau roof. You’ll spot the Black Sea and then smell the scent of the ocean in the air when you disembark, just as the original passengers experienced. On the early routes, passengers would disembark at Varna and cross the Black Sea by ferry before picking up another train.
Crossing the border from Bulgaria to Turkey, the train stops and all the passengers alight to have their passports stamped in person at the customs booth. Pascal admits to being worried about how passengers would react but has found that they think it’s fun and enjoy chatting to their fellow passengers on the platform as well as the passersby who gather to look at the train. “It’s a social element on the platform. It’s absolutely my favourite aspect of the trip,” says Pascal.
VSOE
Guests are encouraged to dress up onboard so cocktails and dinner is particularly fun with everyone in Art Deco inspired frocks and Black Tie. The bar car can be a bit of a crush with guests crowding in between the two dinner sittings but a Champagne Bar has been created within one of the dining cars. Most importantly, like all the best bars it doesn’t close until the last guest has gone to bed.
Sitting room in The Savoy’s Royal Suite
The Savoy hotel London
Chef Kirk Westaway at Jaan
Krug x Mushroom dish at the Tippling Club
Chef Ryan Clift at the Tippling Club
Krug x Mushroom dish at Song of India
Krug x Mushroom dish at Hashida Sushi
VSOE
VSOE
Chopstix & the City 