Jul 28
A canny way of eating at Michelin starred restaurants in London and Paris has long been to opt for the set lunch. Now you can do the same in Singapore with Joel Robuchon Restaurant being awarded three Michelin stars.
The Michelin Guide Singapore launches July 21st 2016
When it comes to the Michelin Guide and Asia, anything is possible, just look at the Hong Kong edition. But here’s who we’d like to see gain stars in the inaugural Singapore red book published on July 21st:
Cheryl Koh and Sebastien Lepinoy at Les Amis, Singapore
[UPDATE: Les Amis was awarded two Michelin stars in the inaugural Singapore guide on July 21st 2016].
With Les Amis in Singapore listed as Asia’s 12th Best Restaurant last night and Cheryl Koh announced as Asia’s Best Pastry Chef 2016, here’s a look at the restaurant’s heritage:
Fans of French fine dining restaurant Cepage in Hong Kong will still be able to enjoy the cooking of head chef Sebastien Lepinoy and pastry chef Cheryl Koh even though the Michelin starred restaurant is now closed. They’ll just have to visit Singapore.
The culinary pair have been lured to the Lion City to head up Cepage’s sister establishment Les Amis. Both restaurants share the same enticing formula of sophisticated food and slick service mixed with an unstuffy atmosphere; a recipe that has made Les Amis as popular with food writers in the region as it is with regular customers.
Odette restaurant, Singapore
Julien Royer, formerly head chef of the acclaimed Jaan, now has his own restaurant in the form of Odette, a bread roll’s throw away from his alma mater, within Singapore’s stunning new National Gallery.
Odette is named in homage to Royer’s grandmother. And the family theme continues as the dreamy design is down to artist Dawn Ng – wife of the restaurant’s co owner, Wee Teng Wen of the Lo and Behold group – in conjunction with Universal Design Studio.
The specially designed open kitchen at Odette
With its romantic, cream interiors, Odette is the White Swan to Lo and Behold stablemate, Black Swan nearby in the CBD. But back to the food.
Royer is continuing to mix classical French with modern techniques in his new home. Some of his greatest hits from Jaan are on the menu: Mushroom “tea”; 55 mins Onsen Egg; Heirloom Beetroot Variation; and Hay Smoked Pigeon.
In it’s new incarnation though the Pigeon is served two ways: the breast cooked sous vide then grilled and the leg cooked for six hours. And the Onsen Eggs are smoked on a bed of pines – foraged by the chef’s father and sent over from France (another family link).
Julien Royer Chef de Cuisine Odette
Royer has also added some new creations such as the standouts Hokkaido Uni with Apple, Mussel and Caviar and Trout with Miso Glazed Kurobuta Pork.
The welcome champagne trolley includes Chartogne-Taillet rose, Henri Giraud for Odette and Krug – said to be Royer’s favourite.
Desserts, by pastry chef Nicolas Vergnole, are also impressive including Confit Victoria Pineapple (below): toasted coconut ice cream, banana cake, passionfruit coulis, tapioca and Kaffir lime.
Royer and his team are clearly shooting for a few Michelin stars when the Singapore Guide launches later this year.
[UPDATE: Odette was awarded two stars in the inaugural Michelin Guide Singapore on July 21st 2016].
http://www.odetterestaurant.com
Harvest Salad at Bacchanalia, Singapore
[UPDATE: Bacchanalia has been renamed Kitchen by Bacchanalia and was awarded a Michelin star in the inaugural Singapore guide on July 21st 2016.]
Former Fat Duck chef Ivan Brehm has at last got the restaurant he deserves in the new Bacchanalia venue on gentrified Hong Kong Street. Gone is the moody lighting and lounge bar setting, refreshingly replaced by an airy, open space that’s like eating in someone’s (very expensive) kitchen.
More importantly chef Brehm – and fellow Fat Duck alum Mark Ebbels – are able to focus on the food. Out with the a la carte burgers and fries, in with a tasting menu only that really lets the food shine.
Ivan will talk you through the mind blowing detail that went into each component of every dish. Produce-driven is becoming an overused phrase but Brehem and Ebbels seeks out the finest ingredients they can in nearby Cameron Highlands and also grow their own on the rooftop vegetable garden.
Lamb saddle with kibbeh nayeh
Left to his own devises, Ivan also brings in touches of Middle Eastern. Such as the lamb saddle and charred eggplant purees with harissa and kibbeh nay (a minced raw lamb on Arabic bread) – one of the best dishes Chopstix and tasted in Singapore this year.
It’s a relief to see that old favourites like the cold pressed coconut cream aged carnaroli risotto are still on the menu too.
Desserts such as marsala mousse, coffee ganache, cacao gel and blackcurrent sorbet are equally cleverly created and delectable.
You won’t want to miss out on the superb drinks pairings from sommelier Matthew Chan either.
Gone too is the chef’s table, right in the kitchen, which is a shame but overall we’ll take the new incarnation of Bacchanalia over the old hands down.
[UPDATE: Bacchanalia has introduced a three course set dinner menu for SG$65, available Monday – Thursday. The Table D’Hote menu currently includes the classic cold pressed coconut cream with aged carnaroli risotto.]
The open kitchen interior of Bacchanalia, Singapore
Chopstix & the City 